tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-55243354229564009812024-03-15T01:19:49.243-07:00 Tom Ripley a weekend warrior...Tom Ripleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12154083762954009666noreply@blogger.comBlogger81125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5524335422956400981.post-57669375294747278052016-12-30T16:30:00.000-08:002016-12-30T16:30:06.455-08:002016 in pictures<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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2016 seems to have flown by. It doesn't seem long since I was seeing in the new year on a sweaty dance floor in El Chalten. After coming back from South America, Nikki and I spent the next sixth months living in Chamonix, before returning to the UK and its flipping excellent rock climbing. 2017 you are going to have a lot to live up to!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iQoCsY-4Na8/WGFUNmT4n_I/AAAAAAAACPQ/w_ABtk2Nj80L8PuS2ZgCbSW_SKF8Ln6rgCLcB/s1600/DSC02628.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iQoCsY-4Na8/WGFUNmT4n_I/AAAAAAAACPQ/w_ABtk2Nj80L8PuS2ZgCbSW_SKF8Ln6rgCLcB/s400/DSC02628.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Matt Burdekin climbing our new route the Siren on Aguja Bifida Sur.
Climbing over two days we made the third ascent of this little known
mountain at the head of the Torres Valley.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rwnI6CzW_8w/WGFUNWUCEvI/AAAAAAAACPM/vGp_MxxrDus2L3wMZ2fSz31RuEdt9EX0gCLcB/s1600/DSC02837.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rwnI6CzW_8w/WGFUNWUCEvI/AAAAAAAACPM/vGp_MxxrDus2L3wMZ2fSz31RuEdt9EX0gCLcB/s400/DSC02837.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: 12.8px;">Rich Howells on the first day of the Verbier-Zermatt Haute Route. </span>Once I'd figured who to ski off piste, it was all about multi day ski tours.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QAxi3PpdvDU/WGFURlAKmOI/AAAAAAAACPU/6xDz0ak8I90FTNUnKlp3mTjVbWgO6by6gCLcB/s400/DSC02974.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="400" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hamish Dunn climbing black ice on the North Face of the Gran Paradiso, before skiing down the easy way.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eWutPI8NV2Y/WGFU3_poSqI/AAAAAAAACPc/rkDNHFaoscU4XpzCwmyOl0NZh5RfCN9wQCLcB/s1600/DSC03405.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eWutPI8NV2Y/WGFU3_poSqI/AAAAAAAACPc/rkDNHFaoscU4XpzCwmyOl0NZh5RfCN9wQCLcB/s400/DSC03405.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hamish and I on top of the Dufourspitze. This was the last day of a fantastic ski tour, ticking 4000m peaks around the Monte Rosa. Our legs were very tired by this point and it took a look of motivation to get out of bed that morning. The endless powder on the way back to the hut more than made up for it.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Mp8zXVurqdI/WGFVFL1U2WI/AAAAAAAACPs/HWDYV4tG3SEtdP40HZb8wBXMzOhSwfKpACLcB/s400/DSC03748.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="266" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Once skiing finished it was all about alpine rock climbing. Duncan came out for four to see what this alpine lark was cracked up to be. We had a mega time and managed to squeeze in the Salluard Route on Pointe Adolphe Rey and the Swiss Route on the Grand Capucin. Apart from the altitude I think he loved it.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RlsQbau_LHM/WGFUuGc-cVI/AAAAAAAACP0/oJHko9xG-JcZnURZ4HvzuTyL1nURlJ8nQCEw/s400/DSC03852.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="400" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Swedish Mike half way up Forty Metre Dihedral on the Petit Dru's American Direct. We abseiled off several pitches later when it started to rain. This is one to go back for. The climbing is stellar. Next time however I'll be going up and over the top!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-g9MDYn_uDbk/WGFVDQVYCfI/AAAAAAAACQI/ZUYc6lYwzgE4f-mdUZdsE3x-XCFLriZ7gCEw/s1600/IMG_0697.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-g9MDYn_uDbk/WGFVDQVYCfI/AAAAAAAACQI/ZUYc6lYwzgE4f-mdUZdsE3x-XCFLriZ7gCEw/s400/IMG_0697.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Westgrat on the Salbitschijen with John Roberts. Thirty or so pitches of the best granite you will ever climb. Made ever more hilarious by me forgetting my harness. Big thanks to Karin for lending me one. Thankfully I was pretty skinny at the time and able to squeeze into it.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-V0UIDSOFNEA/WGFU54rJJtI/AAAAAAAACP0/X1_JfTTAl-krEqdD0tqeruuG7KnEzAvngCEw/s1600/IMG_0829.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-V0UIDSOFNEA/WGFU54rJJtI/AAAAAAAACP0/X1_JfTTAl-krEqdD0tqeruuG7KnEzAvngCEw/s400/IMG_0829.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is a rubbish picture of a very chuffed me at the top of Dinas Cromlech's Left Wall. Back in the UK, fit and light for all the alpinism, I managed to tick of a bunch of routes that previously had been just out of reach. The best of the lot was Left Wall, which put up a good fight.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iKX-ln5Is9Q/WGa6HC9-7tI/AAAAAAAACQo/Rh6hsrcrFZwir-xSRtNz-Sm5EdCSPv0wQCLcB/s1600/IMG_0891.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iKX-ln5Is9Q/WGa6HC9-7tI/AAAAAAAACQo/Rh6hsrcrFZwir-xSRtNz-Sm5EdCSPv0wQCLcB/s400/IMG_0891.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dad on the magnificent Dragon at Carnmore in Northwest Scotland. The next day we climb Gob which was even better. If Carlsberg made weekends...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ni7u2TRZb3I/WGFVK_DbcoI/AAAAAAAACQI/lwD2y7xM2S8h32mLB3VYJ9ELeiqRRmkQgCEw/s1600/IMG_0907.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ni7u2TRZb3I/WGFVK_DbcoI/AAAAAAAACQI/lwD2y7xM2S8h32mLB3VYJ9ELeiqRRmkQgCEw/s400/IMG_0907.JPG" width="367" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Serth on Cloggy - a slightly esoteric E2. The next day I led November, my first E3 onsight.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LpjS944zY_Q/WGFTrFandmI/AAAAAAAACPI/MbOFfgF3Y0ECWqbj1hjA2Cfh1IapoXUGQCEw/s1600/15726140_10155377337095931_488684478_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="285" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LpjS944zY_Q/WGFTrFandmI/AAAAAAAACPI/MbOFfgF3Y0ECWqbj1hjA2Cfh1IapoXUGQCEw/s400/15726140_10155377337095931_488684478_o.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Unfortunately I don't have any photos of High Tor or of this route: Darius. Thankfully Guy VG was able to lend me this one. Bizarely, having climbed so many world class routes this year, Darius, a 60m pitch, on far from perfect Peak limestone is by far and away the route I am most proud to have climbed. Thanks to Ben for the patient belay. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-GRq6fXlnQp8/WGa09yAeFmI/AAAAAAAACQY/d4_vjOWJUgAtybgYSiqZe3MCN8mXjskiwCLcB/s1600/IMG_3707.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-GRq6fXlnQp8/WGa09yAeFmI/AAAAAAAACQY/d4_vjOWJUgAtybgYSiqZe3MCN8mXjskiwCLcB/s400/IMG_3707.JPG" width="370" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another highlight of 2016 has been watching Nikki get her climb mojo back. Here she is, having just lead the first pitch of Gogarth's Northwest Passage. Looking forward to more adventures in 2017.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-yyU3uRtz254/WGFVkSRLlmI/AAAAAAAACQA/k5Ov_sSSvKQukhZnXlGBIH5rqAF6e83MgCEw/s1600/IMG_1090.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-yyU3uRtz254/WGFVkSRLlmI/AAAAAAAACQA/k5Ov_sSSvKQukhZnXlGBIH5rqAF6e83MgCEw/s400/IMG_1090.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hamish Dunn and Adrian Nelhams on Gogarth at Gogarth during our British Mountain Guides Rock Induction. After spending so much of 2015 and 2016 working towards the pre-requirements it was great to get accepted on the scheme. I'm really looking forward to the training and assements coming up in 2017.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-l6BZo0qU14w/WGFVlHXQCwI/AAAAAAAACQE/tF23-UkQVhsyuxH2pKeNQWaBtW1h49uVgCEw/s1600/IMG_1153.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-l6BZo0qU14w/WGFVlHXQCwI/AAAAAAAACQE/tF23-UkQVhsyuxH2pKeNQWaBtW1h49uVgCEw/s400/IMG_1153.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Last but not least Rich Howells climbing Motorhead on Eldorado, Switzerland. This was the best route we climbed on a two week trip to the Alps this autumn. It lives up to its reputation as a world classic. </td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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Tom Ripleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12154083762954009666noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5524335422956400981.post-856636830575647942016-10-04T11:14:00.001-07:002016-10-17T03:06:57.799-07:00Completing British Mountain Guides' pre requirements. <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-6a9Y6eC8AK0/V_Pw7BjkfzI/AAAAAAAACOc/Xy_KLaP0qoEPvOlVHybQaQNj7RgsJMIkACLcB/s1600/IMG_1094.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-6a9Y6eC8AK0/V_Pw7BjkfzI/AAAAAAAACOc/Xy_KLaP0qoEPvOlVHybQaQNj7RgsJMIkACLcB/s400/IMG_1094.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Hamish Dunn and our assessor Adrian Nelhams climbing Gogarth on Gogarth Main Cliff, during our British Mountain Guides Rock Induction. </i></td></tr>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
Earlier this year - coincidentally on the same day as
Britain voted to leave the EU - an email landed in my inbox informing me that I
had been accepted onto the British Mountain Guides' training scheme. Over the
previous eighteen months I had focused all of my free time in ticking through
the remaining prerequisites. The post below explains my journey and is
hopefully of interest to those contemplating following the same path. I have written it because I would have found something similar really helpful eighteen months ago. Completing the Guides' pre requirements has been a really satisfying and enjoyable
process. Having now undertaken the first three days of rock training I have
been really impressed by the quality of the training and am really looking
forward to the journey ahead, though I imagine the assessments will be a little
bit stressful. </div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
*<o:p></o:p></div>
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</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
A little over two years ago, my wife and I stood in the Llanberis Pass looking
up at the stars. We'd first met in North Wales and had spent the first three
years of our relationship living there. A year previously Nikki's work had
taken us both to Sheffield, by no means a bad place for a climber to live but
it wasn't North Wales. We'd both grown accustomed to living in the mountains and our lives felt empty without them. Sheffield has
a number of advantages over North Wales. First it rains a lot less and second it has more normality, plus conventional jobs are easier to come by. At
the time I had a conventional job, working in the sales office of a major
outdoor brand. I was rubbish at it - administration and spread sheets are not
my strong suits - and the hour long commute, in stop start traffic, down the M1, was making me miserable. </div>
<o:p></o:p><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
Looking up in the darkness Nikki said she missed being able
to see the stars. She proposed that we move back to North Wales once she had
completed her training. Eagerly I agreed but pointed out that there wasn't much employment
in my line of work over here. Tentatively I suggested that I could train to
become a Mountain Guide; expecting the usual negative I'd gotten whenever I'd
previously made the suggestion. Much to my surprise Nikki asked what it
involved. I found a pad of paper in the car, uploaded the pre requirements
page on the BMG website onto my phone. I spent the rest of the evening
scribbling down the routes I had done and working out the gaps in my
experience.<br />
<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
The <a href="http://www.bmg.org.uk/become-a-guide/pre-requirements/">BMG's pre
requirements</a> are roughly as follows:<o:p></o:p></div>
<ul style="margin-top: 0cm;" type="disc">
<li class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">50
multi pitch E1 rock climbs<o:p></o:p></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">50
British winter climbs. At least 35 of which are in Scotland and 20 grade
Vs.<o:p></o:p></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">20
major alpine summits.<o:p></o:p></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">10
easier alpine routes<o:p></o:p></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">10
alpine routes grades TD or harder, 5 of which needed to be mixed and over
800m long.<o:p></o:p></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">30
days of ski touring, 15 of which need to be multi day ski tours consisting
of 3 consecutive nights in alpine huts.<o:p></o:p></li>
</ul>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
At the time my experience was a long the lines of:<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<ul style="margin-top: 0cm;" type="disc">
<li class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">UK
rock climbs. Having spent much of my life living in either the Lake
District or North Wales I had climbed stacks of multi pitch E1s and E2s
and I had done a bunch of long rock routes abroad. I'd not done many in
Scotland however. <o:p></o:p></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">Winter
climbing. I had just over 50 routes; but quite a lot of them were in
England; and Wales and much of my Scottish experience was on Ben
Nevis. <o:p></o:p></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">Major
Summits. I had climbed 15, plus a few smaller ones.<o:p></o:p></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">Easier
Alpine Routes. On paper I had more than what was required but quite a few
of them were high altitude rock routes. My list was also very
Chamonix-centric.<o:p></o:p></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">Harder
Alpine Routes. I had about 8, 5 of which were long enough. However most of
them were quite rocky and once again were Chamonix-centric. I also had a
handful of routes in Patagonia, Peru, and Alaska which would hopefully
count. <o:p></o:p></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">Ski
touring. This was major area of weakness. I'd been on a few ski holidays
with my parents and vaguely knew how to ski. However I'd not done a single
day of touring.<o:p></o:p></li>
</ul>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
Next week at work, in between answering 'what jacket should I
buy to walk up Mount Snowdon emails' and making mistakes on key accounts'
forward orders I discreetly typed out the BMG application form. I then emailed
the form off to a Guide I knew asking for feedback. He got back to me telling
me to do more Scottish winter routes and to climb in remoter
coires; do a few more alpine routes, making the effort to visit areas other than
Chamonix and hardest of all learn to ski properly. Nikki and I sat down together and made a plan. We calculated that it would probably take 18 months for me to finish the
pre-requirements. We decided that over the following year I'd focus all my
weekends in getting my Scottish winter climbing up to scratch and that I'd use
my holidays to bolster my alpine experience. We also decided to save up
as much money as we could and both take six months of work. We'd spend six
months living in Chamonix. This would allow me to get my skiing up to standard,
complete the ski touring pre requirements and to do a few extra alpine routes. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
That winter I went to Scotland every weekend from
mid-January to Easter. Regardless of the weather forecast Friday afternoon
would see me driving North on the M1. I made the effort to get some remoter
venues and by the end of the winter I'd managed to boost my list to just shy of
fifty Scottish routes. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
Rock climbing was pretty straightforward. I just continued
as normal, going climbing in the Peak after work and heading away at the
weekends. Rather than heading for the usual suspects (Gogarth and Pembroke) I
made a special effort to head up to Scotland a couple of times. Climbing the
Old Man of Hoy with Nikki, Heather and Jonny and The Needle with Dad were two
of my best days climbing in 2015. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
I used my three remaining weeks of holiday in 2015 to head
to the Alps. Short Alpine trips are always a bit of a gamble with
weather, acclimatisation and conditions. However I was relatively
productive and managed to climb some extra alpine summits, do a couple of
shorter TDs and the <a href="http://tomripleyclimbing.blogspot.fr/2015/08/freezing-cold-soaked-through-and-scared.html">S Ridge of the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey.</a> <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
Crunch time came in November when I handed in my notice. By
this time I was working as a sales representative for a smaller outdoor firm and was
actually enjoying my job. I finished work just before Christmas and headed to
Scotland with my friend Hamish (who had also decided to apply for the Guides'
Scheme) to get a few extra climbs done.<br />
<br />
On Boxing Day I flew to Patagonia with my friend Matt and Polly for a five week climbing trip. In early February I got back from South America after a successful trip. I managed to squeeze in four days
work doing boot demos, before Nikki and I packed up all our possessions into the car, and started the long drive to Chamonix. Arriving to rain was less than ideal but we soon got
into the swing of things, piste skiing every day through a stormy February. I had
a few ski lessons too, which although expensive were well worth the money and
helped improve my technique big time. I also did my first day tours on the
occasional sunny days. As the season progressed so did my skiing. Thankfully
2016 was a very snowy season and skiing was possible well into June. Although
it wasn't a great winter for alpine climbing I was still able to get a few
shorter mixed routes done. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
My first multi day tour was in late March. Together with
Will Harris and Rich Howells we skied the Verbier to Zermatt Haute Route over four
days. As well as doing a host of one and two days tours I also skied the
Bernese Oberland West with my Dad and sister, and did a bunch of Monte Rosa
4000ers with Hamish Dunn. These multi day journeys were really valuable
experiences and far more challenging than single days tours. They were also a
great way to bag a few summits. I found them one of the most enjoyable
parts of the pre requirements. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
The deadline for applications is the 31st of May. A few day
prior to that I gave my application a final proof read, and after ringing the
BMG office to pay the £75 application fee, emailed my form across. It seemed an
age until I heard anything back and towards the end of June I was getting
pretty tetchy. Finally an email landed in my inbox telling me I'd been
accepted with no proviso. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
Hopefully this post is helpful to anyone thinking of
becoming a guide. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
To summarise:<o:p></o:p></div>
<ul style="margin-top: 0cm;" type="disc">
<li class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">If
you have a partner make sure they are fully on board regarding what is
involved with the Guides' training scheming. The pre requirements alone
are quite time consuming and costly. Once you are six months into the
scheme it is pretty much a full time commitment. <o:p></o:p></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">Fill
out the application form early and treat it as a working documents. That
was you can see any gaps in your experience and work to eliminate them.<o:p></o:p></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">Speak
to any Guides you know and ask them about the job and what it involves.
Every British Guide I have come across has been approachable and friendly.
They are just psyched climbers after all.<o:p></o:p></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">Try
and find some reasonably flexible work that you can do whilst on
the training the scheme.<o:p></o:p></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">Make
sure you have done your five long TD routes before you apply. In my view
these are the hardest section of the pre requirements to complete, as you
need good weather, good conditions and a good partner. I think I would have found doing them to a provisional deadline really quite stressful and not at all enjoyable.<o:p></o:p></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">Enjoy it. Don't too much pressure on yourself. Going climbing and skiing is really good fun. </li>
</ul>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
A massive thank you to everyone who has climbed and skied
with me; all the Guides who kindly looked at my application and offered their
advice; and most of all to Nikki for being the most supportive wife ever. Hopefully the
training scheme itself will be as rewarding as getting there. <o:p></o:p></div>
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Tom Ripleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12154083762954009666noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5524335422956400981.post-17757090857023333072016-08-10T02:20:00.001-07:002016-08-10T02:22:24.769-07:00The Chamonix Aiguilles Traverse<div class="MsoNormal">
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="background: white;">I'm not sure of the exact definition of the Chamonix
Aiguilles. I should know, I've watched the evening light glow across them enough
times. To my mind they are the set of spiked mountains that run form the
Aiguille du Midi westward, finishing at the Grand Charmoz or maybe l'M. My
original plan was ambitious. Bivi underneath the Grand Charmoz and climb it and
every other peak between it and the Midi over two days. Mike brought me back to
the earth, pointing out it would probably take us at least three, and we agreed
to go downwards from the Midi instead. </span><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Zkdxq4dGPus/V6rrtFwiuFI/AAAAAAAACMs/S4BtTZRP45YoArTrk_RPtqPSP7XNB0LNQCLcB/s1600/DSC03937.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Zkdxq4dGPus/V6rrtFwiuFI/AAAAAAAACMs/S4BtTZRP45YoArTrk_RPtqPSP7XNB0LNQCLcB/s400/DSC03937.JPG" width="400" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: x-small;">Looking across the Chamonix Aiguilles at sunset.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; line-height: 16pt;">Josh's partner had bailed on him so we were
now a trio. The three of us took a late Midi up and spent a few hours relaxing
in station. After a brief negotiation we secured accommodation, "No, we
won't make any mess and we'll be gone by two in morning." In the
warmth I fell into an easy sleep. The alarm went off, we gulped down breakfast
and got going. It is amazing how much quicker everything is when you're warm
and inside.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: 11.5pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">We tiptoed down the Midi Arête,
marvelling at the Valley Blanche under the full moon. The snow, firm beneath
our crampon made passage secure and easy. As we sped along the Midi-Plan ridge,
un-roped, I remembered the last time I'd been here: aged fifteen, the last
route of my first alpine trip. It had been a big adventure back then, we'd
turned around just before the summit of the Plan so as not to miss the last
lift. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: 11.5pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">A couple of fun rock pitches led us to
the summit of the Aiguille du Plan, just before dawn. The whole traverse had
taken us around two hours. After a short abseil Mike led us down and up onto
the Dent du Crocodile. We were still making good time and the description still
made sense. I made a slight error abseiling off the Crocodile, but a short
pendulum brought us back on route and we continued on towards the Dent du
Caiman. We started to loose time here as Josh led us towards the summit. Still
everything was under control. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: 11.5pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">We started to descend of the Caiman; we
tried to follow the vague disruption in the photocopy of the Phillipe Batoux book
we had with us. Nothing seemed to make sense and soon we were lost on the south
face with nothing but the faded tat of other unfortunates to keep us company.
We certainly never found the "strenuous grade five move" that led
back onto the west ridge. Eventually Mike found himself in the footprints of
the party ahead of us, but only after climbing a scary pitch of wide climbing
and making thirty metre horizontal abseil that involved three runners to
redirect his ropes. Josh came across this last and slipped off taking the last
runner out. Thankfully the ends of the ropes were also tied in and he was
caught like giant fly in a spider's web. We were now all thoroughly pissed off,
having wasted at least four hours. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: 11.5pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">We continued onwards, moving together,
with the occasional abseil, towards the Lépiney. Tired and dehydrated after a
day in burning sun. It felt like we had spent the whole day descending rather
than climbing. I tried to find a way to the summit, but the heat had frazzled
my motivation. Instead we brewed up and ate our freeze-dried meals, before
continuing on to a good bivi ledge below the Fou.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: 11.5pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">My sleeping bag was too warm and I
struggled to make myself escape out of it into the cold morning air. Eventually
I mustered the motivation and we got going a little later than planned. The Fou
was straightforward, slightly longer than expected. I block led, pulling on the
occasional runner to speed up the process. From the summit – Well, just below
the summit, I couldn’t work out how to surmount the final perched block – we
continued abseiling and moving together towards the Ciseaux. Josh led a final
tricky section before we were able to scramble over towards the Blaitiere. At
this point we noticed a core shot in one of our two ropes and decided it would
be prudent to descend straight down rather than attempting to reach the summit.
<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: 11.5pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">After a snowy winter, the descent down
the Spenser Couloir was in good condition. However we managed to jam our other
rope early on and were forced to chop it. Thankfully this did not cause an
issue for the descent down the Nantillons Glacier and we managed to make the
last lift.</span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-co4r_P8FhPE/V6rt39mt9xI/AAAAAAAACNU/UtTt__QeEto7_traS5DxQtnxR4SzGjhVwCLcB/s1600/DSC03947.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-co4r_P8FhPE/V6rt39mt9xI/AAAAAAAACNU/UtTt__QeEto7_traS5DxQtnxR4SzGjhVwCLcB/s400/DSC03947.JPG" width="400" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: x-small;">Ridge ministers</span><br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/--ujr2MB2lnk/V6rrv1zCwyI/AAAAAAAACMw/8dXq-BgVYOs78fqAoJRfnzGXz5tDBpvDwCLcB/s1600/DSC03951.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/--ujr2MB2lnk/V6rrv1zCwyI/AAAAAAAACMw/8dXq-BgVYOs78fqAoJRfnzGXz5tDBpvDwCLcB/s400/DSC03951.JPG" width="400" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: x-small;">Josh and Mike heading towards the summit of the Aiguille du Plan.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-uBvpCGaB9rc/V6rrtFekEsI/AAAAAAAACMo/zXO4mmhdWsY5PVh96FHRZK3gMmILGdHTwCLcB/s1600/DSC03961.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-uBvpCGaB9rc/V6rrtFekEsI/AAAAAAAACMo/zXO4mmhdWsY5PVh96FHRZK3gMmILGdHTwCLcB/s400/DSC03961.JPG" width="400" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: x-small;">Rigging the abseil of the top of the Dent du Crocodile.</span><br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xI1dbeY7ey4/V6rsqiYznEI/AAAAAAAACM4/aPg5HNlFF-oe8DPm5YUSbD1bHV-qJWiEgCLcB/s1600/DSC03967.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xI1dbeY7ey4/V6rsqiYznEI/AAAAAAAACM4/aPg5HNlFF-oe8DPm5YUSbD1bHV-qJWiEgCLcB/s400/DSC03967.JPG" width="266" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: x-small;">Mike brewing up below the <span style="background-color: white; line-height: 21.3333px; text-align: start;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Lépiney</span></span></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DqqyYUqitzA/V6rsd4kPi8I/AAAAAAAACM0/1V8pk_-FAGom8w450ie8EPZntIaVBlZHwCLcB/s1600/DSC03986.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DqqyYUqitzA/V6rsd4kPi8I/AAAAAAAACM0/1V8pk_-FAGom8w450ie8EPZntIaVBlZHwCLcB/s400/DSC03986.JPG" width="400" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: x-small;">You know it's a good bivi when you fall asleep with your sunglasses on.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-i000YGobY0g/V6rsu1gyTpI/AAAAAAAACM8/TyHsopGn84IL_hso5f-p65809-zfC7dugCLcB/s1600/DSC03990.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-i000YGobY0g/V6rsu1gyTpI/AAAAAAAACM8/TyHsopGn84IL_hso5f-p65809-zfC7dugCLcB/s400/DSC03990.JPG" width="400" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: x-small;">Cold scenes in the morning.</span><br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jF01l4P6JT8/V6ruApDnePI/AAAAAAAACNY/QYhr1YDr8EAAQCTE95zcDpdnn5ypy7McQCLcB/s1600/DSC03998.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jF01l4P6JT8/V6ruApDnePI/AAAAAAAACNY/QYhr1YDr8EAAQCTE95zcDpdnn5ypy7McQCLcB/s400/DSC03998.JPG" width="400" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: x-small;">Josh A0ing for Yorkshire low down on the Fou.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DhWGel0Bl5o/V6ruHeGoMAI/AAAAAAAACNc/Qj82-K9vJHsvdBdGtHj48TFtUBIZCFwywCLcB/s1600/DSC04009.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DhWGel0Bl5o/V6ruHeGoMAI/AAAAAAAACNc/Qj82-K9vJHsvdBdGtHj48TFtUBIZCFwywCLcB/s400/DSC04009.JPG" width="400" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: x-small;">Josh and Mike a couple of pitches higher on the Fou.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: x-small;"><br /></span>
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<tr><td><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QQExnd2XjL0/V6rtLrZymAI/AAAAAAAACNE/l-5M2DywYQMMLP3LM3Eb0JcZWNn6tcRUgCLcB/s1600/SAM_0156.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QQExnd2XjL0/V6rtLrZymAI/AAAAAAAACNE/l-5M2DywYQMMLP3LM3Eb0JcZWNn6tcRUgCLcB/s400/SAM_0156.JPG" width="400" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: x-small;">Mike and I shuffling across toward the Blatitiere. Photo: Josh Fawcett.</span><br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YZWZrNrovEo/V6rwSdRxSTI/AAAAAAAACN0/1hqrRKhiG8ofPczVbOklmlhBFTitFzI3gCLcB/s1600/DSC04025.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YZWZrNrovEo/V6rwSdRxSTI/AAAAAAAACN0/1hqrRKhiG8ofPczVbOklmlhBFTitFzI3gCLcB/s400/DSC04025.JPG" width="400" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: x-small;">Granite eats rope!</span></td></tr>
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Tom Ripleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12154083762954009666noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5524335422956400981.post-38607135204479128792016-05-13T03:45:00.000-07:002016-05-13T03:45:01.684-07:00Mainly skiing...Nikki and I have been living in Chamonix since the start of February. Thankfully there has been lots of good snow and I have been able to spend most of my time skiing. I've also managed a few a routes too. Good snow is definitely coming to an end now and I can't imagine I'll be using my skis for much other than accessing routes in the coming weeks. Here are some picture of all that hedonistic sliding.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-15WW6o9t9JU/VzHkSlqA2xI/AAAAAAAACHM/PDptH9GFLRMw9E2ZZHtVuESP0LflIHyuQCKgB/s1600/DSC02736.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-15WW6o9t9JU/VzHkSlqA2xI/AAAAAAAACHM/PDptH9GFLRMw9E2ZZHtVuESP0LflIHyuQCKgB/s400/DSC02736.JPG" style="cursor: move;" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My first ski tour, the Col du Passon. Back in February with Harry Mcghie.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3_o6lU-WlC8/VzHkLFeoJ7I/AAAAAAAACGw/21PwdlDZNDcVeoKKPOqBtWwKZ8RL1-b8wCKgB/s1600/DSC02794.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3_o6lU-WlC8/VzHkLFeoJ7I/AAAAAAAACGw/21PwdlDZNDcVeoKKPOqBtWwKZ8RL1-b8wCKgB/s400/DSC02794.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nikki skiing fresh powder on the VB. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GAq1nSZ1LQs/VzHkG4KdBDI/AAAAAAAACG8/C5mlo5XOSJQu7PXIKeTdbL_3YcEtztyVwCKgB/s1600/DSC02818.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GAq1nSZ1LQs/VzHkG4KdBDI/AAAAAAAACG8/C5mlo5XOSJQu7PXIKeTdbL_3YcEtztyVwCKgB/s400/DSC02818.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Heather experiencing lactic acid in Cogne. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-NnXH6t3hN_w/VzHkyJ1yQhI/AAAAAAAACHY/ASOZWD5wCYMh5lIlckg0gCeeVlZyH32MQCKgB/s1600/DSC02837.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-NnXH6t3hN_w/VzHkyJ1yQhI/AAAAAAAACHY/ASOZWD5wCYMh5lIlckg0gCeeVlZyH32MQCKgB/s400/DSC02837.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In March I skied from Verbier to Zermatt, over four days, with Will Harris and Rich Howells. Rich on day one. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pM3w5lpndGI/VzHk2grMNMI/AAAAAAAACHY/5MKtaetNDB8UvXUrUfix2_8-TkT3em3owCKgB/s1600/DSC02851.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pM3w5lpndGI/VzHk2grMNMI/AAAAAAAACHY/5MKtaetNDB8UvXUrUfix2_8-TkT3em3owCKgB/s400/DSC02851.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cabin fever in the Dix Hut.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-pCiYgayt4NM/VzHk6BeagUI/AAAAAAAACHY/OMKlCMyi6H4l2fDBs0lW1ie7HOkeLs3DACKgB/s1600/DSC02860.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-pCiYgayt4NM/VzHk6BeagUI/AAAAAAAACHY/OMKlCMyi6H4l2fDBs0lW1ie7HOkeLs3DACKgB/s400/DSC02860.JPG" style="cursor: move;" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Will and Rich cramponing up the Wall of Serpentine on the way to the summit of Pigne d'Arolla.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/--oYaG9nCpV0/VzHlgR4A7-I/AAAAAAAACHU/klIhj71cJZoeYdoUV2TXP1lSE3RSQdpfQCKgB/s1600/DSC02876.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/--oYaG9nCpV0/VzHlgR4A7-I/AAAAAAAACHU/klIhj71cJZoeYdoUV2TXP1lSE3RSQdpfQCKgB/s400/DSC02876.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Supplies being delivered to the Vignettes Hut.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-R4-8abhU2_M/VzHlmIdCHBI/AAAAAAAACHo/RjqpcYFP2ika4VLsoaEd2_u8quCHTpqUgCKgB/s1600/DSC02920.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-R4-8abhU2_M/VzHlmIdCHBI/AAAAAAAACHo/RjqpcYFP2ika4VLsoaEd2_u8quCHTpqUgCKgB/s400/DSC02920.JPG" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hamish and Marie joined us for the last day. Marie and I on top of the Tete Blanche, the Matterhorn behind us. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nOSMtFR3Bds/VzHlXbhqiAI/AAAAAAAACHo/bTo8cxAu120igL6JdEB8Dmkib5ucOWYLQCKgB/s1600/DSC02949.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nOSMtFR3Bds/VzHlXbhqiAI/AAAAAAAACHo/bTo8cxAu120igL6JdEB8Dmkib5ucOWYLQCKgB/s400/DSC02949.JPG" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A few days later Hamish and I climbed the Gran Paradiso NW face and skied off the summit. Hamish collecting melt water outside the Chabod Hut the night before. </td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-g2nwsFG5LXo/VzHmBkpPeVI/AAAAAAAACH0/NFwJxH253s4xZjZFIgFPNUFafp_nNCfyACKgB/s1600/DSC02975.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-g2nwsFG5LXo/VzHmBkpPeVI/AAAAAAAACH0/NFwJxH253s4xZjZFIgFPNUFafp_nNCfyACKgB/s400/DSC02975.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hamish on the NW Face. Conditions weren't particularly good with black ice under snow.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ka4SKBHUJDk/VzHmYvUWAmI/AAAAAAAACIE/KAkXC04x-jshS_NnxtKp39e8p6pBxeR8ACKgB/s1600/DSC03012.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ka4SKBHUJDk/VzHmYvUWAmI/AAAAAAAACIE/KAkXC04x-jshS_NnxtKp39e8p6pBxeR8ACKgB/s400/DSC03012.JPG" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hamish leading a short pitch of Diff that lead to the summit. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vQH4DiEZEGw/VzHmKTRHQVI/AAAAAAAACH8/Qhv37ftgWW09KaR72371t_Pb6srXUlWvgCKgB/s1600/DSC03026.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vQH4DiEZEGw/VzHmKTRHQVI/AAAAAAAACH8/Qhv37ftgWW09KaR72371t_Pb6srXUlWvgCKgB/s400/DSC03026.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Madonna scenes atop the Gran Paradiso.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3UwjxS7fanQ/VzHjknCyOBI/AAAAAAAACG0/_Rl4V5AM3M8E7grfwfhO9OsAoWNrAo0OwCKgB/s1600/12513761_10101448604706962_8985863034805214909_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3UwjxS7fanQ/VzHjknCyOBI/AAAAAAAACG0/_Rl4V5AM3M8E7grfwfhO9OsAoWNrAo0OwCKgB/s400/12513761_10101448604706962_8985863034805214909_o.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me leading the Eugster on the Aiguille du Midi.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2ZCl6WyIxLw/VzHmdXvZfbI/AAAAAAAACIE/yCqqxdQ9XsUcr0FzO3njsXLBZxU3OWYxwCKgB/s1600/DSC03086.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2ZCl6WyIxLw/VzHmdXvZfbI/AAAAAAAACIE/yCqqxdQ9XsUcr0FzO3njsXLBZxU3OWYxwCKgB/s400/DSC03086.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Will Harris leading the final ice section on the Eugster before it meet the Midi Arete. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4Qtnhq307DQ/VzHmuRlCArI/AAAAAAAACIM/oL9ke1u2ia4AOK5ac0Yn7NT79JfkROwmQCKgB/s1600/DSC03095.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4Qtnhq307DQ/VzHmuRlCArI/AAAAAAAACIM/oL9ke1u2ia4AOK5ac0Yn7NT79JfkROwmQCKgB/s400/DSC03095.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Big Tim charging up the lower slopes on the Frendo Ravenal. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CTEXZEfuiDk/VzHjktfWOLI/AAAAAAAACG0/cH2MqDnsUaIfCLD1zLPGhRJKlNs9TyRuQCKgB/s1600/12968028_482858271902175_4029482162064559253_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CTEXZEfuiDk/VzHjktfWOLI/AAAAAAAACG0/cH2MqDnsUaIfCLD1zLPGhRJKlNs9TyRuQCKgB/s400/12968028_482858271902175_4029482162064559253_o.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me leading on the Frendo Ravenal on the Aigulle Carree. Heavy spindrift slowed my pace to a snail's. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bp6FyAaxyFI/VzHnCu8ynOI/AAAAAAAACIU/QjN0l8FR1k8Yyv36F0Rivf4mo_fqT3jFgCKgB/s1600/DSC03101.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bp6FyAaxyFI/VzHnCu8ynOI/AAAAAAAACIU/QjN0l8FR1k8Yyv36F0Rivf4mo_fqT3jFgCKgB/s400/DSC03101.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rob Partridge leading one of the tricky upper pitches on the Frendo Ravenal.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4PwEZQZKc2E/VzHsOUyjaUI/AAAAAAAACLU/_I8xcnmFs-AV_wgpW0SX7c3hk6eyk3h1gCKgB/s1600/IMG_0368.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4PwEZQZKc2E/VzHsOUyjaUI/AAAAAAAACLU/_I8xcnmFs-AV_wgpW0SX7c3hk6eyk3h1gCKgB/s400/IMG_0368.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">John Roberts skinning up the Aiguille d'Argentire. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-77IVpAnlrNo/VzHjjwqysSI/AAAAAAAACG0/9--utge5kYgMmWadxT-i6wngtTw3Le-5wCKgB/s1600/12963726_10154198486109658_2189361092318819645_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-77IVpAnlrNo/VzHjjwqysSI/AAAAAAAACG0/9--utge5kYgMmWadxT-i6wngtTw3Le-5wCKgB/s400/12963726_10154198486109658_2189361092318819645_n.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">John and I decided that there was too much fresh snow and it was far too hot to continue up safely. So we turned round and skied fresh powder. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_Yhy0GAebyE/VzHnEpNqYSI/AAAAAAAACIU/1cBMtkGMDdMjJmwPOzrTIphyiwSxbX3EgCKgB/s1600/DSC03122.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_Yhy0GAebyE/VzHnEpNqYSI/AAAAAAAACIU/1cBMtkGMDdMjJmwPOzrTIphyiwSxbX3EgCKgB/s400/DSC03122.JPG" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In early April my Dad, sister, Simon and Simon headed to the Western Oberland for a four day tour. Here are the team skinning up on day one.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vTy4GSFbVaU/VzHnXiO3SuI/AAAAAAAACIk/YfXr6Rt6MfUUoH2zUbJMrkAIa38Fy9UDACKgB/s1600/DSC03140.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vTy4GSFbVaU/VzHnXiO3SuI/AAAAAAAACIk/YfXr6Rt6MfUUoH2zUbJMrkAIa38Fy9UDACKgB/s400/DSC03140.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Caitlin mastering the art of going down hill with skins on.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nND3p5x8Qjw/VzHnuCK7KrI/AAAAAAAACIw/U-9Lzqmm2b0qfO_18i9PO-dmsZ7Y4Ad5wCKgB/s1600/DSC03164.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nND3p5x8Qjw/VzHnuCK7KrI/AAAAAAAACIw/U-9Lzqmm2b0qfO_18i9PO-dmsZ7Y4Ad5wCKgB/s400/DSC03164.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Heading up towards the Wildhorn. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4Qb3pezdqoU/VzWo0Rah4_I/AAAAAAAACMU/ZrMZs0n30jgOVCzi_dfyc8XnAJMHRQQRQCKgB/s1600/IMG_1483.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4Qb3pezdqoU/VzWo0Rah4_I/AAAAAAAACMU/ZrMZs0n30jgOVCzi_dfyc8XnAJMHRQQRQCKgB/s400/IMG_1483.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Caitlin and me on top of the Wildhorn.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gKY9bO3LHiE/VzHjmS4nsTI/AAAAAAAACG0/tBfVViL7WLcKrWQM2jP84n0w10165OGSwCKgB/s1600/12983467_10153964864630225_4667647835654882930_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gKY9bO3LHiE/VzHjmS4nsTI/AAAAAAAACG0/tBfVViL7WLcKrWQM2jP84n0w10165OGSwCKgB/s400/12983467_10153964864630225_4667647835654882930_o.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pin bindings aren't indestructible. I ripped the leave off these on the way down to the Wildhorn Hut. Thankfully I was able to bodge them back together and continue for the rest of the tour.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wnpG7pF3Ep0/VzHslIfnZRI/AAAAAAAACLY/M6yHYa_R91YUxfxr3BQqpeQZPkVp-HZdQCKgB/s1600/IMG_0389.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wnpG7pF3Ep0/VzHslIfnZRI/AAAAAAAACLY/M6yHYa_R91YUxfxr3BQqpeQZPkVp-HZdQCKgB/s400/IMG_0389.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Day three: We skied from the Wildhorn Hut to the Wildstrubel Hut in bad weather. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-J4lahu9_-yE/VzHsphWfvnI/AAAAAAAACLY/ThLgYrCXWVoR4gZ2Z-B4UBCpV7M0vxDPwCKgB/s1600/IMG_0399.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-J4lahu9_-yE/VzHsphWfvnI/AAAAAAAACLY/ThLgYrCXWVoR4gZ2Z-B4UBCpV7M0vxDPwCKgB/s400/IMG_0399.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Simon leads the way up a final rocky ridge that led to the Wildstrubel Hut. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OfnE53IJvSU/VzJD7Mt2HVI/AAAAAAAACME/4VOFG7iuORYqJlKcNEix9gbyoDuYkn1rQCLcB/s1600/DSC03173.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OfnE53IJvSU/VzJD7Mt2HVI/AAAAAAAACME/4VOFG7iuORYqJlKcNEix9gbyoDuYkn1rQCLcB/s400/DSC03173.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The joys of spring ski touring. Hamish enjoying grass and rain on the way to the Adele Planchard Hut in the Ecrin.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3QHp5mE-zGQ/VzJC_EBgk6I/AAAAAAAACL8/OSqAjxBWbH8y5Pg3prySV5y1t3BVTUTnACLcB/s1600/13047997_10153617761170698_3296076295449021383_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3QHp5mE-zGQ/VzJC_EBgk6I/AAAAAAAACL8/OSqAjxBWbH8y5Pg3prySV5y1t3BVTUTnACLcB/s400/13047997_10153617761170698_3296076295449021383_o.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me ecstatic to arrive at the Adele Planchard Refuge after 1500m of skinning in the rain and snow. Unfortunately the hut had no heating of any kind, making it pretty grim. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-O60isZe28_s/VzHoNMWYMAI/AAAAAAAACI8/KVokPfAYBg0s2FVv7pHbPfNVzu8-HKUrwCKgB/s1600/DSC03216.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-O60isZe28_s/VzHoNMWYMAI/AAAAAAAACI8/KVokPfAYBg0s2FVv7pHbPfNVzu8-HKUrwCKgB/s400/DSC03216.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">After a really wind night, we woke next morning to really grim weather. Without a GPS there was no way we were continuing onwards. However we were treated to fresh powder in this fun couloir on the descent.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wcenjMyqKWQ/VzHoRnuMbgI/AAAAAAAACI8/RfMDHk5TWLYBqn9v5VEKPoQVyyuOAsNLwCKgB/s1600/DSC03218.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wcenjMyqKWQ/VzHoRnuMbgI/AAAAAAAACI8/RfMDHk5TWLYBqn9v5VEKPoQVyyuOAsNLwCKgB/s400/DSC03218.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Antoine enjoying the last of the fresh powder. This was followed by lots of skating and a fair amount of walking. All in the rain.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-n90PMd1QeiQ/VzHoj3Udv8I/AAAAAAAACJE/qyKUraq3j_sHimH6aCMVC1nm_tNZRUiXACKgB/s1600/DSC03227.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-n90PMd1QeiQ/VzHoj3Udv8I/AAAAAAAACJE/qyKUraq3j_sHimH6aCMVC1nm_tNZRUiXACKgB/s400/DSC03227.JPG" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Josh Fawcett enjoying the Modica Noury on Mont Blanc du Tacul. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Z1LsBbkmF3I/VzHo5p7r9VI/AAAAAAAACJM/ekFb1VBw5zAaLsclY6rv1CkDjqy7BbQYACKgB/s1600/DSC03239.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Z1LsBbkmF3I/VzHo5p7r9VI/AAAAAAAACJM/ekFb1VBw5zAaLsclY6rv1CkDjqy7BbQYACKgB/s400/DSC03239.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Josh leading the final pitch of the Modica Noury. By this point all the other teams had abseiled off, making it a much more enjoyable experience.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kvoXkJY_pj8/VzHpQbovaQI/AAAAAAAACJg/Tu3-XvNsUq8TtvEIN1tkmgR4hVzGmsfRgCKgB/s1600/DSC03243.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kvoXkJY_pj8/VzHpQbovaQI/AAAAAAAACJg/Tu3-XvNsUq8TtvEIN1tkmgR4hVzGmsfRgCKgB/s400/DSC03243.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">More spring ski touring, at least the weather was nice this time. Polly en route to the excellent Rifugio Bezzi. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QAzYlvpihcs/VzHpJEpepII/AAAAAAAACJU/dfyKqW7nQBcNA-qM3VaYfQCE6tbWSvFygCKgB/s1600/DSC03248.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QAzYlvpihcs/VzHpJEpepII/AAAAAAAACJU/dfyKqW7nQBcNA-qM3VaYfQCE6tbWSvFygCKgB/s400/DSC03248.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Polly, skinning now, not much further to the skiing and then the hut. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NNuzfSVXe6Y/VzHpk11MXoI/AAAAAAAACJo/vwsAtaIQUAM0SdhyOXQLT1YfTPHLrQiBQCKgB/s1600/DSC03254.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NNuzfSVXe6Y/VzHpk11MXoI/AAAAAAAACJo/vwsAtaIQUAM0SdhyOXQLT1YfTPHLrQiBQCKgB/s400/DSC03254.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">American Matt, skinning up the Gran Paradiso. We left the car at six and tried to go top in a day. Strong winds and extremities turned us around 100m from the summit and we enjoyed a fun ski down via the Rifugio Vittorio Emanuele.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FuVGIvgvW0Q/VzHpucl3voI/AAAAAAAACJo/BSkdIPQ8IHo6-9oswhwds1Rylobs4x0vgCKgB/s1600/DSC03259.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FuVGIvgvW0Q/VzHpucl3voI/AAAAAAAACJo/BSkdIPQ8IHo6-9oswhwds1Rylobs4x0vgCKgB/s400/DSC03259.JPG" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Two days later Burdy joined us for the Breche Puiseux.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1ry5MQ3fAiE/VzHp5WuwMKI/AAAAAAAACJ0/yMbmj_Mvua0MnfpxyCr6V1YGBcQsCxHlACKgB/s1600/DSC03284.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1ry5MQ3fAiE/VzHp5WuwMKI/AAAAAAAACJ0/yMbmj_Mvua0MnfpxyCr6V1YGBcQsCxHlACKgB/s400/DSC03284.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Burdy skiing fresh snow under the Jorasses.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-BeqvhHQRWx0/VzHqUcyy_6I/AAAAAAAACKE/erbTRcTxqAM5eKl7zBmhEmHpfbmgDjtywCKgB/s1600/DSC03288.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-BeqvhHQRWx0/VzHqUcyy_6I/AAAAAAAACKE/erbTRcTxqAM5eKl7zBmhEmHpfbmgDjtywCKgB/s400/DSC03288.JPG" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The next morning, Hamish and I got up early and drove to Zermatt.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Xu_mkThi_L0/VzHqKpRmqYI/AAAAAAAACJ8/B252V9vHBaEaTSWXnSFjrPEnxJ1D9DXxwCKgB/s1600/DSC03291.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Xu_mkThi_L0/VzHqKpRmqYI/AAAAAAAACJ8/B252V9vHBaEaTSWXnSFjrPEnxJ1D9DXxwCKgB/s400/DSC03291.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Not early enough though. We missed the good weather in the morning and spent the day skiing and skinning roped up to the excellent Guide d'Ayas Hut.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-JJpRa3uorRg/VzHqc4VRVbI/AAAAAAAACKM/T9VPU87IqOcno5ha4dY50AwRPq9OH1KoACKgB/s1600/DSC03296.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-JJpRa3uorRg/VzHqc4VRVbI/AAAAAAAACKM/T9VPU87IqOcno5ha4dY50AwRPq9OH1KoACKgB/s400/DSC03296.JPG" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hamish taking his skins off before the final ski down to the hut.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-E6so8HgvQcw/VzHqksb5GiI/AAAAAAAACKY/IDDOl0gV-oADCTI9hpPfQM8ozugAp4fUgCKgB/s1600/DSC03299.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-E6so8HgvQcw/VzHqksb5GiI/AAAAAAAACKY/IDDOl0gV-oADCTI9hpPfQM8ozugAp4fUgCKgB/s400/DSC03299.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The next morning the weather was grim. Rather than going up and over Lyskamm we descended down beneath the hut.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tlWVVFhjV_U/VzHjm8VSR1I/AAAAAAAACG0/Es_qObJSuQ0nC7g0ssl3byUlrRcPkdwCgCKgB/s1600/13119823_10154005612850225_509788846154317100_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tlWVVFhjV_U/VzHjm8VSR1I/AAAAAAAACG0/Es_qObJSuQ0nC7g0ssl3byUlrRcPkdwCgCKgB/s400/13119823_10154005612850225_509788846154317100_o.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">With 60cm of fresh powder there were plenty of hidden rocks. I managed to take some big chunks out of my recently serviced skis.<br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-BN4NspurTC0/VzHqx0FC5yI/AAAAAAAACKg/v7mcyKhynacgDBRB0vkcXsBpNi-cpmaMQCKgB/s1600/DSC03307.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-BN4NspurTC0/VzHqx0FC5yI/AAAAAAAACKg/v7mcyKhynacgDBRB0vkcXsBpNi-cpmaMQCKgB/s400/DSC03307.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption">We the skinned up for 700m (very grateful to the super fit french guide who broke trail all the way) before traversing down to join a closed piste that lead us down to Staffal. After an hour thawing out in the cafe, we took three lifts and then skinned for an hour more to the Mantova Hut. </td></tr>
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</td></tr>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-03yCYF87hEc/VzHq3ou8lUI/AAAAAAAACKg/5L0X2YJ_C9wbrQPSzgNafbGrf_sK-ss9ACKgB/s1600/DSC03323.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-03yCYF87hEc/VzHq3ou8lUI/AAAAAAAACKg/5L0X2YJ_C9wbrQPSzgNafbGrf_sK-ss9ACKgB/s400/DSC03323.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Day 3: The weather was still awful. Undeterred we set off towards the Monte Rosa Hut in a whiteout. We turned around at around 4000m when strong winds got the better of us. We spent the rest of our days twiddling our thumbs in the excellent Gnifetti Hut. Top tip: The Gnifetti Hut is 5 euros a night more expensive than the Mantova Hut, but it does include half a litre of wine and a a litre of water with dinner. </td></tr>
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</div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-72rEnu-gYw4/VzHxjPGnayI/AAAAAAAACLw/LafT5vFfbewK3CgyebbFwpKD3nzqLx9LQCKgB/s1600/P1090438.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-72rEnu-gYw4/VzHxjPGnayI/AAAAAAAACLw/LafT5vFfbewK3CgyebbFwpKD3nzqLx9LQCKgB/s400/P1090438.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Day 4: Finally good weather! We left the Gnifetti Hut and skied up and over three 4000ers, before descending down to the very swish (and very Swiss) Monte Rosa Hut. Me on top of Pyramid Vincent. </td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ydQfFfV4Q10/VzHrLPQzFcI/AAAAAAAACKs/i--MlBqhpb4CF1d9zHrn9JiWE1YJ_LT5wCKgB/s1600/DSC03328.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ydQfFfV4Q10/VzHrLPQzFcI/AAAAAAAACKs/i--MlBqhpb4CF1d9zHrn9JiWE1YJ_LT5wCKgB/s400/DSC03328.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hamish and I on the summit of the Signalkuppe.<br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kCJJj2wCLFQ/VzHxg1XifoI/AAAAAAAACLw/RnBjDI0rD7YMVKmSHmnwbniTuHTWQhQxACKgB/s1600/P1090447.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kCJJj2wCLFQ/VzHxg1XifoI/AAAAAAAACLw/RnBjDI0rD7YMVKmSHmnwbniTuHTWQhQxACKgB/s400/P1090447.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption">Only in the Alps, a mountain hut atop a 4554m mountain. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tEglIvxGXEQ/VzHrZDuFqiI/AAAAAAAACKs/WYboXDpevZgFZ1w0PG_jo5r6TAP8wniDwCKgB/s1600/DSC03333.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tEglIvxGXEQ/VzHrZDuFqiI/AAAAAAAACKs/WYboXDpevZgFZ1w0PG_jo5r6TAP8wniDwCKgB/s400/DSC03333.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hamish just before the summit of the Zumsteinspitze. Our third 4000er of the day.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-lwiiOSxy8Zg/VzHrPbvs3zI/AAAAAAAACKs/NZvOnFzCN2E4fkS3m4WvJw0I3KQg_vHawCKgB/s1600/DSC03373.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-lwiiOSxy8Zg/VzHrPbvs3zI/AAAAAAAACKs/NZvOnFzCN2E4fkS3m4WvJw0I3KQg_vHawCKgB/s400/DSC03373.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Day 5: After much deliberation we decided to set our alarms for 3am and skin up the Dufourspitze. After eleven days without a rest I felt pretty terrible. Miraculously once I get going my body seemed to forget how tired it was. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5LmN3SXeVHo/VzHr6Cd7eXI/AAAAAAAACLE/uwmkEUJcDC0gVWXdqYc73VPGA7UnBtBOwCKgB/s1600/DSC03408.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5LmN3SXeVHo/VzHr6Cd7eXI/AAAAAAAACLE/uwmkEUJcDC0gVWXdqYc73VPGA7UnBtBOwCKgB/s400/DSC03408.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hamish and I at the top of the Dufourspitze. After 1600m of skinning we were treated to a fun little climb to reach the summit.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iXpzhagX5qI/VzHsefkDExI/AAAAAAAACLY/Qtln1H0mIL4uSzB0nXphm3QItLHxHEzgwCKgB/s1600/DSC03452.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iXpzhagX5qI/VzHsefkDExI/AAAAAAAACLY/Qtln1H0mIL4uSzB0nXphm3QItLHxHEzgwCKgB/s400/DSC03452.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hamish skiing fresh snow on the way back to the hut. Unfortunately the last couple of hundred metres were horrendous breakable crust. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZY9Gf29EI6g/VzHspSEBPqI/AAAAAAAACLY/gMsY1KHFsP0CZiBuhi122ux0TRCB7QyNwCKgB/s1600/DSC03474.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZY9Gf29EI6g/VzHspSEBPqI/AAAAAAAACLY/gMsY1KHFsP0CZiBuhi122ux0TRCB7QyNwCKgB/s400/DSC03474.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Back in Chamonix. Amy and I caught the first lift and skiied down to the base of Point Adolphe Rey.We climbed a few pitches of warm, dry rock, before abseiling off and skiing down in time for the last train.</td></tr>
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Tom Ripleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12154083762954009666noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5524335422956400981.post-10690910356369307432016-02-29T10:08:00.002-08:002016-02-29T10:09:52.822-08:00The Siren<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
Thwunk.
The rock, remarkably similar in size and shape to a rugby ball smashed into my
stomach, knocking the wind out of me. The twenty something kilo pack on my back
accentuated this, pushing me into the ground. “I don’t care if Cerro bloody
Torre is at the end of this valley.” I thought, “I am never walking up here
again.” <o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
*<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
It
is the middle of January, Matt Burdekin and I are walking along the side of
Laguna Torre on our way into the Torre Valley. The ground beneath our feet is
hideously loose and as a result progress is unfeasibly slow. We’ve been in
Patagonia for around three weeks now and have managed to climb a couple of the
smaller spires and have failed to climb Fitzroy twice. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
Many
hours later we arrive at the Nunatek, a rock dome sticking out of the Torre
Glacier, and our home for the night. Matt, always the homemaker, sets to
clearing a ledge and building walls. I collect water, brew up and prepare our
freeze dried dinners.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Few words are
spoken as we both work away, before settling down for the night. Our alarm is
set for 4:30. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
A
couple of hours after dark the wind picks up and it starts to rain gently.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I snuggled down, grateful for the waterproof
outer on my sleeping bag. Matt’s less fortunate, he has just an ordinary
sleeping bag and is starting to get wet. He manages to fashion some sort of
shelter by wrapping himself in our bothy bag, which seems to do the trick. It
still raining when our alarm goes off so we stay in bed. Eventually the sun
warms our bodies and starts to dry our kit. At around 8 we begin to stir and
start getting ready. By 9 we are slogging up the Torre Glacier. Soon we branch
off leftward towards Bifida. The crevasses and the snow bridges are huge.
Probably the biggest I have ever tried to navigate through. We tiptoe through
them with the sixty metres of rope between us, knowing that if it goes wrong it
will go really wrong and wishing we’d gotten our planned early start.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
Eventually,
around noon, the base of the wall is reached. Our planned line of ascent
follows a shallow chimney. The line is so obvious we are unsure as to why it
hasn’t been previously ascended. Matt leads off apprehensively, expecting
difficult climbing but it all goes smoothly. The initial chimney is about
Severe. Soon we’re swinging leads up the huge slab. There is plenty of loose
rock about, but underneath is solid granite. Matt and I, expecting difficult
climbing had packed enough supplies for three days on the face and had brought
along a huge rack, including all sorts of aid climbing esoterica, and a haul
bag. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Thankfully this was mostly
redundant and the climbing was mostly never harder than VS. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
After
thirteen pitches of climbing, shortly before nightfall, we joined the existing
route, Cogan and found a convenient ledge. Matt busied himself the ledge
palatial, while I melted endless snow. The night was clear and still. After a
freeze dried dinner we both slept soundly. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
We
awoke the next morning to more perfect weather. Leaving most of our gear on the
ledge we climbed up, down, then up again, on less than ideal rock to join the
South Ridge. Here Matt led four tricky pitches, on wet but otherwise excellent
rock that were the cruxes of the climb. These led to the summit of Aguja Bifida
Sur, with views stretching across the vast Southern Patagonian Ice Cap.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
All
too soon we were on our way down again, abseiling back our line of our ascent. After
a straightforward descent we arrived back at our advanced camp shortly before
dark. Being alone watching night fall with Cerro Torre on the right and Fitzroy
on the left, with not a breath of wind, will stay with me for a long time. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<o:p><i>Matt and I are indebted to the following organisations who supported our trip: <a href="http://www.mef.org.uk/">Mount Everest Foundation</a>, <a href="https://www.thebmc.co.uk/">British Mountaineering Council</a>, <a href="http://aacuk.org.uk/">Austria Alpine Club</a>, <a href="https://www.crux.uk.com/">Crux</a>, <a href="http://www.edelrid.de/en/">Edelrid</a> and <a href="http://www.mountainhouse.eu/">Mountain House</a>. Without your support the trip would not have been possible. Thanks a lot. </i></o:p></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Matt questing up new ground on Bifida. Fitzroy in the background. </i></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Burdy leading the probable crux of The Siren.</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Burdy on our palacial bivi ledge. </i> </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Me leading easy ground on Cogan on day two.</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Burdy about to reach the summit. </i></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Matt, me (and Ueli the wolf) on the summit.</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-XhPnKTERnGc/VtSFDt40g1I/AAAAAAAACDc/kYUycZqUYeY/s1600/bifida_E_1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><i><img border="0" height="400" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-XhPnKTERnGc/VtSFDt40g1I/AAAAAAAACDc/kYUycZqUYeY/s400/bifida_E_1.jpg" width="233" /></i></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The line of our route. (c) Rolo Garibotti.</i></td></tr>
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Tom Ripleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12154083762954009666noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5524335422956400981.post-27851893146819050902015-12-24T12:32:00.002-08:002015-12-24T12:32:43.113-08:00That was 2015<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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2015 has been another good year and I've been lucky enough to climb a stack of great routes. The year started well with Nikki and I climbing that standard route on Neilion, on Mount Kenya, on January 3.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nikki near the top of Neilion.</td></tr>
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Once back home I spent all my weekend's (I only missed one weekend between the middle of January and Easter) winter climbing in Scotland. Needless to say I managed to a fair bit done. Highlights included getting dragged up the Shield Direct in a storm by Pete; climbing Crowberry Gully and Route Major with Nikki and a perfect weekend in Lochaber, climbing Northeast Buttress and Stand and Deliver with Tim. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pete at the top of the Shield Direct</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nikki pleased to be back at the car after Route Major.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tim on a bizarrely desserted Northeast Buttress. Every other route on the Ben was rammed.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me trying to control the pump on Stand and Deliver on Anoch Beag.</td></tr>
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In May, Nikki and I with our good friends Heather and Jonny climbed the Old Man of Hoy. Our slightly ambitious plan was to climb three sea stacks (Hoy, Stoer and Am Buachaille) in a four day round trip from Sheffield. The four of us successfully managed Hoy; Heather, Jonny and I managed to struggle our way up Stoer in the drizzle; but bad weather and a lack of moral fibre meant we weren't sufficiently motivated to attempt Am Buachaille in the rain.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nikki and I scope out The Old Man of Hoy.<span style="text-align: justify;"> </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the top. Left to right: Nikki, Me, Heather, Jonny. </td></tr>
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Another great day out in May, and no pushover, was the Stanage VS challenge. This involves climbing the 36 routes that are graded Very Severe in the 1989 guide book. Tim and I had blast doing them all in slightly under eleven hours. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tim and I at the top of Crab Crawl - The final climb of the challenge.</td></tr>
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For Nikki 2015 has been mainly about suffering. She has undertaken a load of gruelling challenges to raise money and awareness for male cancer. (Her dad was diagnosed with testicular cancer last year.) You can read more about her suffering <a href="http://nikkisyearofsuffering.blogspot.co.uk/">here</a> and can donate <a href="http://uk.virginmoneygiving.com/fundraiser-web/fundraiser/showFundraiserProfilePage.action?userUrl=nikkisommers">here</a>. June saw two of her most bonkers challenges. First, she attempted to bike from Lands End to John O'Groats on her own in seven days, failing 55 miles from the end due to illness. Second, she became to the first woman in the UK to 'Everest' a hill. For those of you not in the know, Everesting involves biking up, and down, a hill until the the vertical relief of Everest is achieved. Nikki choose Froggatt in the Peak and biked up and down it 38 times in just under 25 hours. In other news I lead Comes the Dervish my first E3.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nikki back in Sheffield after almost LEJOG.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nikki midway through "Everesting" Froggatt.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me leading Comes the Dervish.</td></tr>
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In July Nikki and I headed to the Alps for a two week holiday. Unfortunately it was unseasonable hot and Nikki was unbelievable tired, after her Ironman the week before, so the trip was less productive than I'd hoped. That said Matt and I had a great trip up the S Ridge of Aiguille Noire de Peuterey, including an impromptu night of snuggling. At the end of the trip Nikki climbed the Allalinhorn, her first four thousand metre peak. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Matt low down on the S Ridge of the Noire. </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: justify;">Matt enjoying his shiver bivi.</td></tr>
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August was another productive month for rock. Highlights included: a brilliant evening doing Nightmare of Brown Donkeys at High Tor with Dunc; went on an afterwork soloing rampage at Bowden Doors; climbed the Lakeland classic Gillercombe Buttress with Nikki and did the chosstastically brilliant Fantam B on the Lleyn Peninsular with Josh. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Duncan reacquainting himself with trad climbing on Nightmare of Brown Donkeys.<span style="text-align: justify;"> </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bowden - I can't believe I'd never climbed in the County before. <span style="text-align: justify;"> </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nikki at the top of Gillercombe Buttress. </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: justify;">Josh taking in some of the best Choss the Llyen can offer. </td></tr>
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In September Nikki went back to finish the last day of LEJOG; Dad and I had a brilliant weekend climbing mountain routes in Scotland and I had a week of holiday in the Alps. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Good things come to those who wait. Nikki at John O'Groats.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JfOjAr_vIQw/Vnw5Fu2TllI/AAAAAAAACBQ/sr31ohfIhME/s1600/IMG_0935.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JfOjAr_vIQw/Vnw5Fu2TllI/AAAAAAAACBQ/sr31ohfIhME/s400/IMG_0935.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dad half way up the Pause. About twelve pitches through our 16 pitch day on the Etive Slabs.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hVTIix23utI/Vnw5A_Hz1-I/AAAAAAAACBI/Ok8adu1zQsY/s1600/IMG_0977.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hVTIix23utI/Vnw5A_Hz1-I/AAAAAAAACBI/Ok8adu1zQsY/s400/IMG_0977.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me looking down Loch Avon after climbing the Needle on Shelterstone Crag.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: justify;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-uRLqvgl8X4s/Vnwzr3BcJoI/AAAAAAAAB-w/D5sQlWc7ViA/s1600/12113556_10153554825560470_8744519260645977936_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-uRLqvgl8X4s/Vnwzr3BcJoI/AAAAAAAAB-w/D5sQlWc7ViA/s400/12113556_10153554825560470_8744519260645977936_o.jpg" width="298" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: justify;">Will and me on the Rebuffat Gully on the Tour Ronde. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: justify;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IIDb-opxKJ8/Vnwzqc-VQPI/AAAAAAAAB-o/VHXyJs36o-c/s1600/12010657_10101304822442772_8999230680474998983_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IIDb-opxKJ8/Vnwzqc-VQPI/AAAAAAAAB-o/VHXyJs36o-c/s400/12010657_10101304822442772_8999230680474998983_o.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: justify;">Will, Heather and Me on the summit of the Tour Ronde. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: justify;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KXDRDmtaedc/Vnw3qcQMAdI/AAAAAAAACAk/vCCQUoqudfs/s1600/DSC01980.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KXDRDmtaedc/Vnw3qcQMAdI/AAAAAAAACAk/vCCQUoqudfs/s400/DSC01980.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: justify;">H-Flo styling on the S Face of the Midi.</td></tr>
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In early October Nikki swam the length of Ullswater while Dad and I canoed beside her.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-T36D_kpu-mM/Vnw3ldXOvUI/AAAAAAAACAc/JBAQSp8b4I8/s1600/DSC02070.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-T36D_kpu-mM/Vnw3ldXOvUI/AAAAAAAACAc/JBAQSp8b4I8/s400/DSC02070.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nikki swimming like a fish. </td></tr>
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Two weeks ago I finished working for First Ascent and headed to Scotland for a week of winter climbing with Hamish. Unfortuantley after three days a big thaw set in, curtailing our plans. I can't complain too much as one of those was a day of near perfect weather in the North West Highlands. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SLO1Bvp53j0/Vnw4nD7qI4I/AAAAAAAACA8/4DGgLvhU8cE/s1600/DSC02143.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SLO1Bvp53j0/Vnw4nD7qI4I/AAAAAAAACA8/4DGgLvhU8cE/s400/DSC02143.JPG" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hamish enjoying the sensations of Deep Throat.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: justify;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3Cq3bbRKeC0/Vnw4sxp6D0I/AAAAAAAACBU/X7VIDpqxrtU/s1600/DSCN1213.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3Cq3bbRKeC0/Vnw4sxp6D0I/AAAAAAAACBU/X7VIDpqxrtU/s400/DSCN1213.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: justify;">Me climbing Central Buttress on Beinn Eighe. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: justify;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qxh7Xq_t34c/Vnw4RB1U8oI/AAAAAAAACA0/h5XGfLyv198/s1600/DSC02227.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qxh7Xq_t34c/Vnw4RB1U8oI/AAAAAAAACA0/h5XGfLyv198/s400/DSC02227.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: justify;">Hamish getting grumpy because it is getting dark.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wuVo3G37PD0/Vnw5QsooPmI/AAAAAAAACBc/u6xTyCMgmVw/s1600/DSC02229.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wuVo3G37PD0/Vnw5QsooPmI/AAAAAAAACBc/u6xTyCMgmVw/s400/DSC02229.JPG" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pete in his element.</td></tr>
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On Boxing Day I'm heading here for Six weeks. Should be great. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hopefully the weather will be like this...</td></tr>
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Tom Ripleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12154083762954009666noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5524335422956400981.post-7050091750875395072015-12-17T07:44:00.003-08:002015-12-17T07:44:41.592-08:00Father and sonI've been to write this for months, but I've only recently got the pictures from the weekend from my Dad.<br />
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Back in September I had a quite simply brilliant weekend rock climbing in Scotland with my Dad. I was really lucky that my Dad introduced to climbing at quite a young age. He took me a few times and I hated it, especially heights and being lowered. Thankfully he didn't put any pressure on me and left me to play with lego for a few more years. Then when I was around twelve or thirteen something changed. For some reason I started to want to go climbing and started pestering him to take me all the time. Not much has changed since and we've enjoyed many great routes together over the years: Troutdale Pinnacle; Kippling Groove; a Dream of White Horse; Zero Gully; the Hornli Ridge; Astral Stroll - you get the idea. </div>
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I bunked off work early on Friday and drove up to Dad's. We got in his car and continued up to a damp Glen Nevis, where we pitched the tent. The next morning it wasn't raining but it was very humid and looked as though precipitation to could begin at any moment. Ever the optimists we headed to Etive Slabs. Arriving at the Coffin Stone it was humid and the midges were out in force. The only route that looked vaguely dry was The Long Reach. I started up the bold first pitch with trepidation. Thankfully it all went to the plan and by the top of the second pitch the sun was out, the humidity had dropped and a gentle breeze was keeping the midges at bay. The rest of the route flew by. Though going off route on the penultimate pitch and doing 5b padding moves with gear a long, long way below me was rather exciting. </div>
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Soon we were back at the Coffin Stone to find that the rest of the crag had dried out nicely. We decided to nip up the Pause to finish the day, which was almost as good. With sixteen pitches now in my arms the last pitch (which is also climbed on the Long Reach) felt substantially harder than it hard earlier in the day.</div>
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The next day we climbed the Needle on Shelterstone crag. Possibly the best mountain E1 I have ever climbed. Nine brilliant pitches on one Scotland best crags. </div>
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Unfortunately at around midnight on Sunday evening my car, with nearly 240k on the clock, decided to die on the side of the A1. I suppose you can't have everything.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-W6Crwg4bQAs/VnLPSbns4fI/AAAAAAAAB8o/7X5hKtr2itI/s1600/IMG_0894.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-W6Crwg4bQAs/VnLPSbns4fI/AAAAAAAAB8o/7X5hKtr2itI/s400/IMG_0894.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ready for bed on Friday night.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-B8oN07XN7HI/VnLPYvy0N7I/AAAAAAAAB8w/XgT7PYomiCU/s1600/IMG_0896.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-B8oN07XN7HI/VnLPYvy0N7I/AAAAAAAAB8w/XgT7PYomiCU/s400/IMG_0896.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A bold pitch one on a damp Long Reach.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-O8Fuz0tBvXA/VnLPoLmpo1I/AAAAAAAAB84/KkLZ6Q_ilRE/s1600/IMG_0907.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-O8Fuz0tBvXA/VnLPoLmpo1I/AAAAAAAAB84/KkLZ6Q_ilRE/s400/IMG_0907.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dad padding.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UvYR_B8gJx8/VnLPvkYztkI/AAAAAAAAB9A/LOWJJVzwySM/s1600/IMG_0912.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UvYR_B8gJx8/VnLPvkYztkI/AAAAAAAAB9A/LOWJJVzwySM/s400/IMG_0912.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dead on lead on the Long Reach.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Z_tXir3PJrg/VnLP8UoZEWI/AAAAAAAAB9I/yRUdzXlmdS0/s1600/IMG_0919.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Z_tXir3PJrg/VnLP8UoZEWI/AAAAAAAAB9I/yRUdzXlmdS0/s400/IMG_0919.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me on the crux of The Long Reach. Actually I was off route on the Long Wait.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bPwwhE726Fk/VnLQHNbIrFI/AAAAAAAAB9Q/qlUgeg2L_A0/s1600/IMG_0921.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bPwwhE726Fk/VnLQHNbIrFI/AAAAAAAAB9Q/qlUgeg2L_A0/s400/IMG_0921.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A now dry Pause.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ehHFvyTPBdI/VnLQSvPNVzI/AAAAAAAAB9Y/0JXSch5MaOc/s1600/IMG_0933.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ehHFvyTPBdI/VnLQSvPNVzI/AAAAAAAAB9Y/0JXSch5MaOc/s400/IMG_0933.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dad on the Pause.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-c3BwydbmNZI/VnLQv_tqegI/AAAAAAAAB9o/eUqIgzUoenY/s1600/IMG_0940.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-c3BwydbmNZI/VnLQv_tqegI/AAAAAAAAB9o/eUqIgzUoenY/s400/IMG_0940.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dad approaching the Crevasse belay.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sB_QG_bjoIU/VnLQoVIkgnI/AAAAAAAAB9g/lLZxYfTT-fc/s1600/IMG_0942.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sB_QG_bjoIU/VnLQoVIkgnI/AAAAAAAAB9g/lLZxYfTT-fc/s400/IMG_0942.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Re-racking in Riasg.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/--JF3K_UUCKM/VnLQ6EtScBI/AAAAAAAAB9w/4uuI3ED4Pko/s1600/IMG_0950.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/--JF3K_UUCKM/VnLQ6EtScBI/AAAAAAAAB9w/4uuI3ED4Pko/s400/IMG_0950.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me looking colourful underneath Hell's Lum.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-o8zQx8AAnZM/VnLRQP9naqI/AAAAAAAAB-E/i-GB7bEFZgo/s1600/IMG_0952.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-o8zQx8AAnZM/VnLRQP9naqI/AAAAAAAAB-E/i-GB7bEFZgo/s400/IMG_0952.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shelterstone Crag.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-AJe88qAHqFM/VnLRQQQOZoI/AAAAAAAAB-I/Bsox9INz75k/s1600/IMG_0956.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-AJe88qAHqFM/VnLRQQQOZoI/AAAAAAAAB-I/Bsox9INz75k/s400/IMG_0956.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ptarmigans</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RRlRB7uoUWE/VnLOrytg8sI/AAAAAAAAB8I/BhOhdt5n-yo/s1600/DSC01935.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RRlRB7uoUWE/VnLOrytg8sI/AAAAAAAAB8I/BhOhdt5n-yo/s400/DSC01935.JPG" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dad on the Needle.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-fvoVpibw5H4/VnLPChfxdxI/AAAAAAAAB8Y/WHeShr9hZzQ/s1600/DSC01938.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-fvoVpibw5H4/VnLPChfxdxI/AAAAAAAAB8Y/WHeShr9hZzQ/s320/DSC01938.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">High on the Needle.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-E9unfIatkoo/VnLRQKyfmzI/AAAAAAAAB-A/xyZSZeuXZuk/s1600/IMG_0959.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-E9unfIatkoo/VnLRQKyfmzI/AAAAAAAAB-A/xyZSZeuXZuk/s400/IMG_0959.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;">Loch Avon </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-EH04elI11Lo/VnLO-qEeibI/AAAAAAAAB8Q/fGydWnoxBeM/s1600/DSC01945.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-EH04elI11Lo/VnLO-qEeibI/AAAAAAAAB8Q/fGydWnoxBeM/s400/DSC01945.JPG" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Happy Dad.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me leading the last but one pitch. </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;">Top of the crag. </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LNSL9sZkbzg/VnLPJFUnV4I/AAAAAAAAB8g/drmJMZXmzzo/s1600/DSC01948.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LNSL9sZkbzg/VnLPJFUnV4I/AAAAAAAAB8g/drmJMZXmzzo/s400/DSC01948.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">R.I.P after five years of faithful service. </td></tr>
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Tom Ripleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12154083762954009666noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5524335422956400981.post-76846817284104891392015-08-11T16:00:00.003-07:002015-08-12T01:47:53.512-07:00Freezing cold, soaked through and scared out of your tree...A.K.A when light, fast and high goes wrong...<br />
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Chamonix is hot. Crazy hot. Everything appears to be falling down. A couple of days previously Matt and I enjoyed a quick morning dash up the Contamine Vaucher on the Peigne. We raced up the route, in shorts and tee shirts, in a little over three hours, over taking the all other parties, including an indignant French man wearing a site hat, on the way. </div>
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Matt had the weekend off. What should we do next? Something big of course. The Walker Spur? A very, very long held ambition of mine. Apparently it was bone dry at the moment, so we could race up it rock shoes. Easy. A quick chat with my friend Will brought us back to earth. The snow on the top of the Grandes Jorasses was melting, throwing rocks down the spur. A couple of days previously five Brits had been helicoptered off the Jorasses. One with a broken leg. The rock fall sounded suicidal. We had a rethink. The American Direct? The Aiguille Traverse? </div>
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Eventually, after we woke to rain on Saturday morning, we settled for the South Ridge of the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey. A bit easier than we had liked but a good tick and a nice short Sunday day out. After all Matt had to be in work on Monday morning. We drove through the tunnel and after obligatory Courmayeur pizza walked into the hut. There was no snow on the mountain so we ditched our lightweight boots in favour of running shoes and left our super lightweight ski touring axe in the valley. In a last minute ditch to save weight I chucked out my Buffalo Mitts that weigh all of 75 grams! As success was guaranteed we took only a single 60m rope rather than a pair.</div>
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Alarm bells should have started ringing when we got to the hut and saw that the route had taken two aspirant guides we knew of fourteen hours hut to hut. Instead we just thoughts that they'd been a bit slow. Guidebook time for this route is twelve to fourteen hours up and five down.</div>
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The next morning started uneventfully. We moved well up the ridge making good progress. I wasn't firing on all cylinders for some reason, I'm not sure why. I wasn't struggling with the climbing I just wasn't moving that fast. Nevertheless we were making good progress up the route. At around two in the afternoon we reached the top of Point Ottoz. There was only one more tower to overcome before easy scrambling to reach the summit. At this point it started to rain lightly. We took stock in my bothy bag and weighed up the options. Rap off - not really possible with only a single rope, five wires and five cams. Descend the way we came - also not really an option and would probably take at least as long as it did in ascent. Get rescued - No real reason too, plus our only phone was out of battery. We decided our best option was to continue climbing up and over. We kept climbing in the drizzle. Slower now due to mixture of wet rock and fatigue. </div>
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At four pm the rain got heavier, making the climbing harder. We decided to call it a day and made a thirty metre rap down the east side of the ridge, luckily finding a small ledge we could both sit on. Wearing all our clothes (Not a lot: a thermal tee, fleece hoody, thin synthetic hoody, waterproof jacket, buff, thin gloves, thin trousers and no over trousers) we laid the rope out on the ledge and got inside the bothy bag. The rain intensified. Inside our orange world it was humid but at least we were able to stay warm. I pulled on my thin gloves and cursed myself for leaving the Buffalo Mitts - they weigh nothing. My hands were warm enough in the gloves but the gloves were already soggy. I knew in the Buffalos they'd have been warm and dry. I wrapped my arms around Matt and tried to steal his warmth. Every so often we forlornly tried to revive the phone to no avail. </div>
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We presumed that in the valley my wife, having seen the bad weather come in, would have arranged rescue. We half expect a helicopter to arrive that evening. Darkness came and nothing. Inside our bag time ticked away slowly. I held Matt tighter, thinking weak thoughts. What would we do if dawn came and the weather didn't clear? How long could we sit out a storm on this ledge before succumbing to hypothermia? Why wasn't I in the valley with Nikki enjoying our two weeks off? The rain continued to hammer down. Our legs were both cramping up really badly. To relieve this we got out of the bag to stretch. Freezing cold quickly engulfed us and we began to shiver uncontrollably. It was at this point I realized the seriousness of our position. Without the bothy bag we'd be dead. Quickly we got back in and tried our hardest to get warm again. The clock ticked slowly on.</div>
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At some point before dawn the weather seemed to calm. I stood up again to stretch out my cramping legs once more. The cloud had lifted and we could see the lights of Courmayeur below us. It looked like we'd got away with it. Shivering uncontrollably again we got back in the bag. No matter the helicopter will come and pluck us off in a few hours. </div>
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Dawn came. It was still cold so we stayed in the bag, ears pricked. We heard the slightest whir of a chopper and I leapt out arms in the Y shape. The rain that had been falling all night was actually two inches of snow. The helicopter was far away in the distance and didn't appear to be coming closer. We got back in the bag and shivered some more. Eventually the sun came round and started warm us. By this point we'd figured that no chopper was coming and we'd have to sort our own mess. The rock had started to dry and wasn't too cold. We carried on upwards, kicking the occasional step in the frozen snow with our rock boots and doing our best to avoid verglas. At eleven thirty we reached the summit of the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey. The descent was long and tedious with lots of down climbing and short abseils. It took us seven hours and cost us all of tat and most of our slings, not that we cared. We got back to the valley to find my very relieved wife at eight that evening. I was pleased that we'd been able to get ourselves down, safely and hadn't resorted to needlessly calling a helicopter. Self reliance is an essential part of mountaineering. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Matt looking relaxed outside the hut the night before. At this point we still thought it was going to be easy.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">South Ridge of the Noire.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Matt low down on the ridge. All going to plan.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;">Higher up. It's still going to plan. </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The rain has started. Less than ideal.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our home for the night. Cold.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The snow has stopped. The lights of Courmayeur below. </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;">Not a happy Burdekin. </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Soldiering on the next morning. </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Smiles on the summit.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Post route gear splurge. The bothy bag is the orange thing, this size of a chalk bag, in the centre. It saved our bacon and I won't be going into the hills again without one.</td></tr>
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Tom Ripleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12154083762954009666noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5524335422956400981.post-43205198537150032722015-05-28T12:04:00.000-07:002015-06-01T03:23:52.412-07:00Old Man of HoyLast year my Father-in-law, John was diagnosed with Testicular cancer. Although he swiftly had a bollock-off the cancer had already spread. This meant that a long and horrible course of chemotherapy was required. Thankfully he's now on the other side of it and it seems to have done the trick.<br />
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To help others in a similar position to her Dad Nikki has decided to raise some money for Orchid, a male cancer charity, by under going a series of daft challenges throughout the year. One of these included climbing the Old Man of Hoy which we climbed with our friends Heather and Johnny last weekend.<br />
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She has written an account of her climb <a href="http://www.nikkisyearofsuffering.blogspot.co.uk/2015/05/suffering-part-2-old-man-of-hoy.html" target="_blank">here</a> so I won't bore you with my semi-literate waffling.<br />
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I promised Nikki that if she completed the climb I'd sponsor her £50, deducting £10 every time she cried and adding £10 every time she got vomited on by a fulmar. Unfortunately for me she managed a <a href="http://tomripleyclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/2015/02/no-tfa-on-mount-kenya.html">T.F.A</a> and got puked on by a Fulmar once so I owe her £60.<br />
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Below are some photos. If you have any spare monies and are feeling generous please sponsor her suffering <a href="http://uk.virginmoneygiving.com/fundraiser-web/fundraiser/showFundraiserProfilePage.action?userUrl=nikkisommers">here</a>.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A proud Dad.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Old Man of Hoy</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A snap of a snap of my sister and I on family trip to Hoy way back in 2001.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Two lunatics psyched out of their tiny minds in Scrabster.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me trying to convince Nikki I know where I'm going.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me leading the first pitch.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me about to enter the sandy crux chimney on pitch two.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8oExlTsBEKQ/VWdd41Oi3gI/AAAAAAAAB5s/wDeR1sjkDcE/s1600/P1020081.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8oExlTsBEKQ/VWdd41Oi3gI/AAAAAAAAB5s/wDeR1sjkDcE/s400/P1020081.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nikki seconding pitch three.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SvV3qq_2YeI/VWdeD6jXteI/AAAAAAAAB58/DTFpkRxEltw/s1600/P1020100.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SvV3qq_2YeI/VWdeD6jXteI/AAAAAAAAB58/DTFpkRxEltw/s400/P1020100.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Team stack: Nikki, Me, Heather, Johnny.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Abseiling scenes.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jvryhuNzs4s/VWdb-mwrPvI/AAAAAAAAB4U/NAPntwsBB6Y/s1600/DSC01533.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jvryhuNzs4s/VWdb-mwrPvI/AAAAAAAAB4U/NAPntwsBB6Y/s400/DSC01533.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nikki swinging her way across the penultimate abseil.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Old man of Stoer - Sunday's sport plan. The weather was full on with lots of rain, wind and sea spray. Content with her previous efforts Nikki sat this one out. </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Johnny '8b' Baker having just taking a lead fall into the sea on the easiest route he's ever climbed. </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Heather loving salty phalluses.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me sharing the love...</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Team!</td></tr>
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Tom Ripleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12154083762954009666noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5524335422956400981.post-78712957427048745012015-05-08T05:57:00.001-07:002015-05-08T05:57:44.331-07:00ScotlandThis a belated blog about my Scottish winter climbing season. I got back from Kenya, in mid January, and spent nearly all of my free time until easter North of the border winter climbing, or at least trying too.<br />
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Weekend one. I headed north with my Dad. There was a shed loads of snow so desperate as I was to climb we decided to go skiing. Thanks to Iain for lending me his spare skis and boots. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Cad9NC9eiLM/VTCyhZSu5BI/AAAAAAAABzo/TZbix1zpJAA/s1600/DSC00911.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Cad9NC9eiLM/VTCyhZSu5BI/AAAAAAAABzo/TZbix1zpJAA/s1600/DSC00911.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Do days out in the hills get much better than this? Iain Peter and Ginger-Lee skinning in the Drumocter Hills. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HkanR0yjaig/VTCyUIqrvkI/AAAAAAAABzg/UyfluaCg3nM/s1600/DSC00925.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HkanR0yjaig/VTCyUIqrvkI/AAAAAAAABzg/UyfluaCg3nM/s1600/DSC00925.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Skiing back down. I'd have been a bit more careful had I realised how big the cornice/drop was.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MdPyiKnkB7o/VTCyRDgcfdI/AAAAAAAABzY/sx5Moa9uBCs/s1600/DSC00926.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MdPyiKnkB7o/VTCyRDgcfdI/AAAAAAAABzY/sx5Moa9uBCs/s1600/DSC00926.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The next morning the road up to the Northern Corries was closed so we had no choice but to go ski touring again. It's a hard life! We met this chilly pair near the bottom of A'Chailleach.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IumTUZ3qw0w/VTCyuSjfLPI/AAAAAAAABzw/4lAQzm9EgJo/s1600/DSC00929.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IumTUZ3qw0w/VTCyuSjfLPI/AAAAAAAABzw/4lAQzm9EgJo/s1600/DSC00929.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The old man on skis. The weather wasn't bluebird this time but it was good fun.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-L0JUWGfxmC8/VTCy7s4gnBI/AAAAAAAABz4/XDuRq2ZSBSI/s1600/DSC00934.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-L0JUWGfxmC8/VTCy7s4gnBI/AAAAAAAABz4/XDuRq2ZSBSI/s1600/DSC00934.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dad in a bothy halfway up A'Chailleach. The weather turned good, so we continued skinning to the summit and then skied all the way back to the car.</td></tr>
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Weekend two was frustrating. I had planned on spending three days north but my clutch burned out on the A66. Dad drove to meet me and I got my car towed back to Sheff. Cheers to Paul for signing for it in the middle of the night. Saturday found us (and everybody else) it seemed heading towards Beinn Uliadh. Thankfully we were at the front of the pack. A mixture of over confidence, poor technique and blunt crampons found me halfway up Peter Pan Direct pumped out of my tree. I gingerly lowered onto my lanyards and ran away. Cheers to the lads from OB who gave me back my screws. We then joined the back of the queue on Quartzvien Scoop, which was good fun. The forecast was for a thaw on Sunday so we drove back to the Lakes. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dad leading the classic Quartzvien Scoop on Beinn Uliadh.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PdIPpSavVUE/VTCzWFm1bqI/AAAAAAAAB0I/ODKW8NT_7Vg/s1600/DSC00950.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PdIPpSavVUE/VTCzWFm1bqI/AAAAAAAAB0I/ODKW8NT_7Vg/s1600/DSC00950.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dad topping out. The wind was bitter.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-E2SEzD9Auf0/VTCz4-igbHI/AAAAAAAAB0Y/yri0hF411q8/s1600/DSC00953.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-E2SEzD9Auf0/VTCz4-igbHI/AAAAAAAAB0Y/yri0hF411q8/s1600/DSC00953.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">These guys were pretty fun, though they'd happily devour you given half the chance.</td></tr>
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Weekend three. My planned partner bailed on me at 7:30 on Friday morning. Given the dire forecast that was probably a good call on his part. I was still psyched. I desperately texted anyone I thought might be keen. I got a reply from Pete saying he was, but he was only interested in climbing the Shield Direct, a four star Mick Fowler grade VII, a grade or three higher than my usual standard. I agreed on the condition that Pete was leading. After work I drove to the Lakes and met Pete. The MWIS was predicting 100mph gusts, but we convinced ourselves that it would be out of the wind and started driving. The next day we climbed the route in ace conditions and better than predicted weather. Thanks to Pete for leading all the pitches. Maybe one day the stars will align and the route will in condition, I'll be good enough to lead it and will be in Scotland with a day off! On Sunday we had a mellow start (we left the car at 10am) and climbed Green Eyes on Beinn Ulaidh. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pete Graham leading the Fowler/Saunders classic Shield Direct on Carn Dearg Buttress. </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me seconding the crux offwidth. </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Peter in his natural habitat.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A more mellow Sunday - Green Eyes at Beinn Ulidah.</td></tr>
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Weekend four. I lured Nikki north with talk of blue skies and sunshine. Amazingly we woke on Saturday morning to blue skies sunshine. We climbed the mega Classic Crowberry Gully on the Buachaille. A brilliant route, easily worth its four stars, and a great way to get Nikki psyched for winter climbing again. On Sunday Nikki had a rest so Becky Coles and I headed for Scabbard Chimney in SNCL. It was a bit mild and the rock was black, but the back of chimney was fully of stonking plastic which was great fun to climb.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nikki nearing the top of Crowberry Gully on the Buchaille. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-eDgUgUyvxD8/VTC0oOTXByI/AAAAAAAAB04/p5NoYAXLyi8/s1600/DSC01044.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-eDgUgUyvxD8/VTC0oOTXByI/AAAAAAAAB04/p5NoYAXLyi8/s1600/DSC01044.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Becky Coles climbing Scabbard Chimney in SCNL. Not the whitest route I've ever climbed, but I don't think I could have climbed the plastic ice in the back of it without axes and crampons. </td></tr>
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Weekend five: Ian and I head to Meggy. We dossed the night in the carpark and had a mega day climbing Pumpkin and South Pipe Direct on Saturday. On Sunday we nearly got blown over on the walk into the Northern Corries. We turned around to run away and I got blown over, breaking my walking sticks. You win some you loose some.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ian enjoying the Pumpkin on Creag Meagaidh. We climbed South Pipe Direct afterwards. A brilliant day out.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XOgMKmAVB64/VTC04151FcI/AAAAAAAAB1A/gfEICNRxltA/s1600/DSC01080.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XOgMKmAVB64/VTC04151FcI/AAAAAAAAB1A/gfEICNRxltA/s1600/DSC01080.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Enjoying well earned fish and chips in the Kingussie afterwards. Mega winds the next day meant we got blown over on the walk into the Northern Corries and consequently ran away. We should have headed West...</td></tr>
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Weekend six: Back again with Nikki. We climbed Route Major on Carn Etchican. It has been a long held ambition to climb in the Loch Avon basin and it did not disappoint. On Sunday it was super windy and Nikki's knee was giving her gyp so we had a chilled one. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Carn Etchican and Shelterstone Crag. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hKJtOUewGHQ/VTC4eUpy2nI/AAAAAAAAB3A/8ILTJ54mTEw/s1600/P1010756.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hKJtOUewGHQ/VTC4eUpy2nI/AAAAAAAAB3A/8ILTJ54mTEw/s1600/P1010756.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nikki squeezing out of the tricky chimney on Route Major.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8-rh6BPYlbo/VTC4mj6JopI/AAAAAAAAB3I/IXFEkED4oKY/s1600/P1010770.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8-rh6BPYlbo/VTC4mj6JopI/AAAAAAAAB3I/IXFEkED4oKY/s1600/P1010770.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nikki happy to be back and the car after naviagating across the Caingorm Plateau in the dark. </td></tr>
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Weekend seven: Tim, Malcolm and I set off from Sheffield, picking up Pete in Penrith. We arrived at the Lochnagar car park at around midnight to find the, previously unlocked, nature reserve locked. Thankfully it wasn't raining and we all managed to squeeze under the awning. The next day Tim and I enjoyed the spindrift-tastic Polythemus Gully and arrived back at the car totally soaked. Several hours later a very bedraggled Pete and Malcolm arrived back after an attempt on the Link Direct. In our soaked and near exhausted state Tim heroically drove us round to Aviemore without falling asleep at the wheel! The weather on Sunday was full on but a short day in the Northern Corries was felt far more mellow.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ba9R7HJFidc/VTC1SrTilYI/AAAAAAAAB1Q/20NbRnsem18/s1600/DSC01087.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ba9R7HJFidc/VTC1SrTilYI/AAAAAAAAB1Q/20NbRnsem18/s1600/DSC01087.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pete and Malcolm dossing outside the nature reserve at Lochnagar. This was left open when I last visited in 2012 but is currently locked. Thankfully it wasn't raining, there's an awning and handy plug to power Pete's fan heater.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-NgOJZPvxmIM/VTC1MwgPz3I/AAAAAAAAB1I/-csrOVjMONA/s1600/DSC01095.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-NgOJZPvxmIM/VTC1MwgPz3I/AAAAAAAAB1I/-csrOVjMONA/s1600/DSC01095.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tim Hill seconding the first easy but scary pitch of Polythemus Gully on Lochnagar.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Y_4A6LQkRoQ/VTC1upva0uI/AAAAAAAAB1k/VcL048-wFNc/s1600/DSC01106.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Y_4A6LQkRoQ/VTC1upva0uI/AAAAAAAAB1k/VcL048-wFNc/s1600/DSC01106.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tim seconding the third pitch. A narrow gully that funneled spindrift like crazy and made the climbing pretty exciting. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QzI1t6nx500/VTC1ue-bvnI/AAAAAAAAB1g/YJ9SIyKPJt0/s1600/DSC01115.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QzI1t6nx500/VTC1ue-bvnI/AAAAAAAAB1g/YJ9SIyKPJt0/s1600/DSC01115.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tim leading Aladdin's Mirror Direct in the Northern Corries on Sunday.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cYa8MDRXHDo/VTC16PbIYZI/AAAAAAAAB1w/STg2RVUhDxM/s1600/DSC01133.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cYa8MDRXHDo/VTC16PbIYZI/AAAAAAAAB1w/STg2RVUhDxM/s1600/DSC01133.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Followed by Patey's Route, pretty tricky. </td></tr>
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Weekend eight was spent in Chester cerebrating my Grandfather's ninetieth birthday.<br />
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Weekend nine: Tim didn't need much persuading to head up again. He was so keen that he bought new boots. On Saturday we walked in with crowds on the Ben, until we got round the corner into Corrie Leis, and had North East Buttress to ourselves. What a great route. The Mantrap should not be underestimated. In the afternoon we climbed Indicator Wall.<br />
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On Sunday we had a lazy start and got the first lift up Anoch Mor. An hour later we found ourselves at the col between Anoch Mor and Beag looking at a wall of drooling with plastic ice. Tim led the first straightforward pitch and I soon found myself stood below the steep wall of ice psyching myself up. With some trepidation I set off. Thankfully the ice was good. After a steep section low down I regained composure on the half height ledge before setting off again. The pump quickly returned and I just managed to hold it together on the final traverse right. My best lead of the winter for sure.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Xwl4RBn6wRA/VTC2d7PvTsI/AAAAAAAAB2A/DfHdIEFsOfw/s1600/DSC01155.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Xwl4RBn6wRA/VTC2d7PvTsI/AAAAAAAAB2A/DfHdIEFsOfw/s1600/DSC01155.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tim Hill halfway up Northeast Buttress. We'd walked into the Ben with the crowd but found sunshine and solitude on NE Buttress. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NSFtiv3Tv2g/VTC2aH7wOLI/AAAAAAAAB14/yTGEZUeuRBw/s1600/DSC01170.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NSFtiv3Tv2g/VTC2aH7wOLI/AAAAAAAAB14/yTGEZUeuRBw/s1600/DSC01170.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tim leading the Mantrap - desperate!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QsM6arysO7k/VTC2pZ_lbDI/AAAAAAAAB2I/vD-VAdo-SS4/s1600/DSC01173.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QsM6arysO7k/VTC2pZ_lbDI/AAAAAAAAB2I/vD-VAdo-SS4/s1600/DSC01173.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cumbre!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Nys4VMQncNw/VTC3H0wu1zI/AAAAAAAAB2Y/Mxk4I0ail0A/s1600/DSC01175.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Nys4VMQncNw/VTC3H0wu1zI/AAAAAAAAB2Y/Mxk4I0ail0A/s1600/DSC01175.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In the afternoon we dashed down and climbed Indicator Wall. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6Vf8NqSyA_o/VTC4yDUaQAI/AAAAAAAAB3Q/8xs-8hOa2bw/s1600/stand%2Band%2Bdeliver.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="265" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6Vf8NqSyA_o/VTC4yDUaQAI/AAAAAAAAB3Q/8xs-8hOa2bw/s1600/stand%2Band%2Bdeliver.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The next day we had a lazy start and got the lift up to Anoch Mor. I then proceeded to get pumped out of my brain leading Stand and Deliver on Anoch Beag.</td></tr>
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On weekend ten I made a bad crag choice and headed to Creag Meagaidh. The sun was shining and the temperatures were well above the summits. We started up Centre Post but quickly ran away when it started spitting large rock and blocks of ice at us. We drove back to Sheffield and I spent an enjoyable Sunday at Stanage re-remembering to rock climb. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Doctor Crocodile on the walk in before the crag started spitting rocks and ice at us...</td></tr>
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Weekend eleven. I head back to the Ben with Simon Kimber. Rain on Saturday saw us running away from Minus Two Gully. We should have headed up higher to the Indicator Wall but I didn't fancy the avalanche prone wade up Tower Gully. From speaking to the folk who did it sounds like it was still wet. </div>
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Sunday found us backing off Minus Two Gully this time due unconsolidated snow on the pitch one. To make something of the weekend we thought we'd wander over to Harrison's Climb Direct ( further than you'd think) and climbed that in melting conditions. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Minus Two running with water, just before Simon and I ran away. </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Simon on Harrison's. The last route of the winter for me.</td></tr>
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Easter in the North West of Scotland was lovely but there was no winter climbing to speak off. I'm now trying to get my head back into rock climbing mode. The walk ins in the Peak all seem blissfully short. </div>
Tom Ripleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12154083762954009666noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5524335422956400981.post-54973855685145815102015-02-10T13:52:00.001-08:002015-02-15T16:16:33.953-08:00No T.F.A on Mount KenyaA tear free ascent or T.F.A is a style of ascent that all couples climbing together should strive for. I was introduced to the concept of T.F.As by Tad McCrea while killing time at Fourteen Thousand Camp on Denali a couple of years back. Tad and his girlfriend had recently made a T.F.A of the mega classic Beckey-Chouinard Route in the Bugaboos. The rules of the T.F.A are simple. Neither climber can cry at any point during the climbing. As soon as either climber sheds a single tear you can no longer claim a tear free ascent.<br />
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On Boxing day Nikki and flew to Kenya, with the aim of making a T.F.A of Africa's second highest mountain. We got picked up from the airport and driven to Naro Moro River Lodge, a short drive from the National Park's gates. The trip didn't start smoothly. On day two Nikki lost her Iphone and I mistook a bottle of white gas for water. Nevertheless we packed two very large rucksacks and on day three we found ourselves in the back of a clapped out old car speeding towards the Park Gate. After handing over the best part of five hundred quid to enter the park, we shouldered our exceptionally heavy bags and started walking in via the Sirimon Route. For a bizarre and unknown reason we had decided to forgo porters. With all our camping stuff, climbing gear and food for eight days on our backs we walked slowly. Looking back I'm not sure why we put ourselves through this when porters would have cost less than £5 per day.<br />
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One evening porters from another group accosted Nikki at Shipton's Camp. They had seen how tired we were, after three days of tortuous slogging at altitude, and offered their services, for a price of course. The next day involved climbing from 4200m to 4700m so we jumped at their offer. We loaded up two sacks with our climbing gear and all our extra food. The next morning was New Year's Day, with only camping gear to carry our packs were now much lighter. Walking became easy once more. Our light sacks allowed us to climb up and over (rather than walking around) Point Lenana to reach the Austrian Hut below Nelion. We spent the next day resting, learning to breath the thin air while a number of guided parties climbed the route.<br />
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That night I slept awfully. My legs were knackered from carrying a heavy sack for four days and I lay awake wondering if I was fit enough to climb. Thankfully they didn't seem to mind when I shouldered my light climbing sack at 5 am. The approach was straightforward. We got to the base of the route shortly after first light, to find we had the whole mountain to ourselves. After stashing some spare kit we started up the route. The climbing was really enjoyable, not difficult but with quite intricate UK style route finding. The crux corner, shortly after Ballie's Bivi, was not obvious. I managed go off route and ended up climbing up a different corner, which was chossy and slightly harder than expected. The mist started to come in too, which didn't help matters. It all became a little too much for Nikki when halfway up the corner one of her footholds exploded and our T.F.A ended with aplomb. At the top of the corner we managed to regain the route, an easy exposed traverse led to scrambling and then the summit of Nelion. We briefly stopped in the Howell Hut and safe in the knowledge that the T.F.A wasn't to be Nikki had another cry. This time it was with relief/joy.<br />
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We then started descending back down. The rock on Nelion is far from solid, with plenty of spikes, perfect for hanging ropes, this was the part of the day I had been least looking forward to. Surprisingly the descent was straightforward and stress free thanks to this excellent <a href="http://www.summitpost.org/nelion-descent/160054" target="_blank">description</a> of how to locate the bolts, which a friend had recommended. We managed to loose the anchors around Ballie's Bivi but re-found them shortly after. By doing lots of short single rope abseils we avoided any snags and landed back on solid ground three hours after leaving the summit. We stumbled down the scree and back across the glacier, before collapsing into the Austrian Hut. Here we were greeted by two young Germans who were more than happy swap chocolate for slices of their huge gouda. The next morning we packed up and shouldered our considerable lighter, but still very heavy bags, and walked the twenty kilometres back to the road head and civilisation. We spent the rest of the holiday nursing tired legs, eating good food and looking at <a href="http://tomripleyclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/2015/01/kenya-part-one-animals.html" target="_blank">big animals</a>.<br />
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Thanks to Rachel Brine at Lowe Alpine and Dan Thompson at Rab for sorting us out with some really good kit.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-jZVCPLhhzJk/VNp2T-0o2BI/AAAAAAAABwY/uToBWfsdtus/s1600/DSC00436.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-jZVCPLhhzJk/VNp2T-0o2BI/AAAAAAAABwY/uToBWfsdtus/s1600/DSC00436.JPG" height="213" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Day one: Our first view of Mount Kenya from the pool at Naro Moro Lodge.</i> </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Day two: Nikki walking in. Batian and Nelion on the horizon. </i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hLYWGRDVv9Q/VNp2nMyV0xI/AAAAAAAABwg/1iTKW_8WIPI/s1600/DSC00514.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hLYWGRDVv9Q/VNp2nMyV0xI/AAAAAAAABwg/1iTKW_8WIPI/s1600/DSC00514.jpg" height="400" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Nelion and Batian from Shipton's Camp.</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-G8ZEJO5lq_Y/VNp3CKsREVI/AAAAAAAABww/tQY7kVyOjv0/s1600/DSC00524.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-G8ZEJO5lq_Y/VNp3CKsREVI/AAAAAAAABww/tQY7kVyOjv0/s1600/DSC00524.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Tent life!</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-INz9UVM4784/VNp3lxIRhKI/AAAAAAAABxA/RkBxSp1PFsc/s1600/DSC00533.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-INz9UVM4784/VNp3lxIRhKI/AAAAAAAABxA/RkBxSp1PFsc/s1600/DSC00533.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>New Year's Day: Nikki struggling with the Altitude on Point Lenana.</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ro7BfFMuPxU/VNp3LgWGsYI/AAAAAAAABw4/ngUcI7XbbTM/s1600/DSC00539.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ro7BfFMuPxU/VNp3LgWGsYI/AAAAAAAABw4/ngUcI7XbbTM/s1600/DSC00539.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Summit of Point Lenana. </i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AYCwcCd1gA4/VNp5FRCzS_I/AAAAAAAAByA/elvXUjJXomQ/s1600/P1010363.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AYCwcCd1gA4/VNp5FRCzS_I/AAAAAAAAByA/elvXUjJXomQ/s1600/P1010363.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Me leading pitch one.</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gLBqShF6SuM/VNp4B8QVlFI/AAAAAAAABxY/8RNbSYKHtys/s1600/DSC00575.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gLBqShF6SuM/VNp4B8QVlFI/AAAAAAAABxY/8RNbSYKHtys/s1600/DSC00575.jpg" height="400" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Nikki seconding pitch two of the chossy crux variation. </i></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bsadE-rIvgE/VNp3z_dC_fI/AAAAAAAABxI/W14SVuNgRT8/s1600/DSC00579.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bsadE-rIvgE/VNp3z_dC_fI/AAAAAAAABxI/W14SVuNgRT8/s1600/DSC00579.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Nikki on the exposed traverse near the top of Nelion. </i></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CZphtKyXlpo/VNp39CZDDdI/AAAAAAAABxQ/S53FHmxUho0/s1600/DSC00582.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CZphtKyXlpo/VNp39CZDDdI/AAAAAAAABxQ/S53FHmxUho0/s1600/DSC00582.jpg" height="400" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Having a moment in the Howell Hut. </i> </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pXhYz_AmaSw/VNp4OHV_R0I/AAAAAAAABxg/ocb1azsc_S8/s1600/DSC00590.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pXhYz_AmaSw/VNp4OHV_R0I/AAAAAAAABxg/ocb1azsc_S8/s1600/DSC00590.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Cumbre...</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JVuZguLSNho/VNp4rC0IznI/AAAAAAAABxo/Q9ZCn7jRx1E/s1600/DSC00596.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JVuZguLSNho/VNp4rC0IznI/AAAAAAAABxo/Q9ZCn7jRx1E/s1600/DSC00596.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Nikki pulling the ropes on the descent. </i></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xt1Ce5oSat4/VNp4rvvJhNI/AAAAAAAABxs/gCII9UYTMuc/s1600/DSC00607.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xt1Ce5oSat4/VNp4rvvJhNI/AAAAAAAABxs/gCII9UYTMuc/s1600/DSC00607.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Batian, The Diamond Couloir (which according to a local guide was in condition in November 2014), Nelion and Point John on the walk out. </i></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HoyOspcx_0g/VNp46qxqwoI/AAAAAAAABx4/kxEB71Ws7x0/s1600/DSC00617.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HoyOspcx_0g/VNp46qxqwoI/AAAAAAAABx4/kxEB71Ws7x0/s1600/DSC00617.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Back at the road with tired legs and big smiles. </i></td></tr>
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Tom Ripleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12154083762954009666noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5524335422956400981.post-16324326885001969322015-01-20T14:38:00.000-08:002015-01-20T14:38:08.607-08:00Kenya Part One - The animalsMy friend <a href="http://robgreenwoodclimbing.com/2014/11/06/australia-part-1-the-animals/" target="_blank">Rob</a> recently returned from a cragging trip to Australia. Amazingly (especially coming from someone as obsessed with climbing as Rob) he was raving more about the wildlife than the routes. That said he did make the climbing sound pretty damn good! Nikki and I have just returned from a brilliant trip to Kenya. We managed to climb Mount Kenya, which I'll come back to in a later post, and we also saw a load great animals. Here are some photos and a few words:<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-TN0PFq1zPw4/VL7SYptduWI/AAAAAAAABto/QA_frIY42tE/s1600/DSC00451.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-TN0PFq1zPw4/VL7SYptduWI/AAAAAAAABto/QA_frIY42tE/s1600/DSC00451.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A big baboon. We saw this chap on day one of our walk in. Bloody scary really. He looked pretty mean and I was weighed down was 30kg pack and could barely move. Luckily he didn't go for me. </td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-e-biD93s-Qs/VL7SckBh1JI/AAAAAAAABtw/n8VOF6FNcQo/s1600/DSC00614.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-e-biD93s-Qs/VL7SckBh1JI/AAAAAAAABtw/n8VOF6FNcQo/s1600/DSC00614.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A family of hyrax on the walk out from Mount Kenya. These guys look like marmots but are closely related to elephants.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--VdTfkMuv5E/VL7SftHowaI/AAAAAAAABt4/dUbGR85QnHE/s1600/DSC00651.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--VdTfkMuv5E/VL7SftHowaI/AAAAAAAABt4/dUbGR85QnHE/s1600/DSC00651.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nikki kissing Stacey the giraffe at the sanctuary in Nairobi. She wussed out and wouldn't let it lick her!</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-thBg3lEkUMg/VL7S18NDFmI/AAAAAAAABuI/gEkyUwd-7rQ/s1600/DSC00668.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-thBg3lEkUMg/VL7S18NDFmI/AAAAAAAABuI/gEkyUwd-7rQ/s1600/DSC00668.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Zebra...</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fQyY_dfPZMU/VL7S04sTVaI/AAAAAAAABuA/7Fx-PgfezfA/s1600/DSC00692.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fQyY_dfPZMU/VL7S04sTVaI/AAAAAAAABuA/7Fx-PgfezfA/s1600/DSC00692.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Big cat...</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-z5cLVjevdK4/VL7S3DhHe0I/AAAAAAAABuQ/221rhgLIjjA/s1600/DSC00732.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-z5cLVjevdK4/VL7S3DhHe0I/AAAAAAAABuQ/221rhgLIjjA/s1600/DSC00732.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Big cat having lunch... </td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kdJn4FtRh8w/VL7TzJW5zCI/AAAAAAAABug/lwjpAg-1oNs/s1600/DSC00749.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kdJn4FtRh8w/VL7TzJW5zCI/AAAAAAAABug/lwjpAg-1oNs/s1600/DSC00749.jpg" height="400" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A close relation of Duncan Campbell.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-N5nzhIsu8_o/VL7Tw6Y3myI/AAAAAAAABuY/6PSPQoAzI0k/s1600/DSC00756.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-N5nzhIsu8_o/VL7Tw6Y3myI/AAAAAAAABuY/6PSPQoAzI0k/s1600/DSC00756.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A shed load of baboons in Masi Mara. Not quite as scary as this time I was in a truck.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lZM4YFyQHAM/VL7TziZtOkI/AAAAAAAABuk/_a3i8MtMRt8/s1600/DSC00778.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lZM4YFyQHAM/VL7TziZtOkI/AAAAAAAABuk/_a3i8MtMRt8/s1600/DSC00778.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Elephant...</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-quPxzbuFPJ0/VL7UEvwe__I/AAAAAAAABuw/QyhnFDA3Txs/s1600/DSC00825.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-quPxzbuFPJ0/VL7UEvwe__I/AAAAAAAABuw/QyhnFDA3Txs/s1600/DSC00825.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Big birds...</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5AfIRADZ_og/VL7UIznegdI/AAAAAAAABu4/44ZDrQ13z7E/s1600/DSC00828.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5AfIRADZ_og/VL7UIznegdI/AAAAAAAABu4/44ZDrQ13z7E/s1600/DSC00828.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A buffalo and his friend... </td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WpumhMRrKAA/VL7Ura3GcDI/AAAAAAAABvI/I5lLynXzNZM/s1600/DSC00845.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WpumhMRrKAA/VL7Ura3GcDI/AAAAAAAABvI/I5lLynXzNZM/s1600/DSC00845.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Never smile at a...<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-EYIbKfoKDLA/VL7U3qTUNtI/AAAAAAAABvQ/oSe2rIY_s_Q/s1600/DSC00882.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-EYIbKfoKDLA/VL7U3qTUNtI/AAAAAAAABvQ/oSe2rIY_s_Q/s1600/DSC00882.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption">Giraffe crossing the road. Standard.</td></tr>
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</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gef5Y1cLAXs/VL7UjvnkN5I/AAAAAAAABvA/_tK5s9BqRC4/s1600/DSC00904.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gef5Y1cLAXs/VL7UjvnkN5I/AAAAAAAABvA/_tK5s9BqRC4/s1600/DSC00904.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Big pretty bird whose name escapes me...</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yE7ztMdslR0/VL7VP6JF4EI/AAAAAAAABvg/x8N9WogNRLo/s1600/P1010354.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yE7ztMdslR0/VL7VP6JF4EI/AAAAAAAABvg/x8N9WogNRLo/s1600/P1010354.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Be afraid...</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8BY4R9idU0o/VL7VMr8QnkI/AAAAAAAABvY/6XWfWx1396Q/s1600/P1010384.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8BY4R9idU0o/VL7VMr8QnkI/AAAAAAAABvY/6XWfWx1396Q/s1600/P1010384.JPG" height="298" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me snogging Stacey. </td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JxR35XTdv0Y/VL7VkUbrO6I/AAAAAAAABvo/rY-mfmPDdQ8/s1600/P1010486.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JxR35XTdv0Y/VL7VkUbrO6I/AAAAAAAABvo/rY-mfmPDdQ8/s1600/P1010486.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lady cheetah...</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7z6Ytin9B4Q/VL7V0oieQ8I/AAAAAAAABv4/W8TO9y7_qJM/s1600/P1010504.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7z6Ytin9B4Q/VL7V0oieQ8I/AAAAAAAABv4/W8TO9y7_qJM/s1600/P1010504.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Guinea fowl - I think.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-45e_2By1aXI/VL7VpFMrJiI/AAAAAAAABvw/dCm-YeR8yxM/s1600/P1010611.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-45e_2By1aXI/VL7VpFMrJiI/AAAAAAAABvw/dCm-YeR8yxM/s1600/P1010611.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hippos... </td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GBL8mJRFS0I/VL7V9YKJuGI/AAAAAAAABwA/4xxZMmT4L94/s1600/P1010661.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GBL8mJRFS0I/VL7V9YKJuGI/AAAAAAAABwA/4xxZMmT4L94/s1600/P1010661.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This guy was just crossing the road. </td></tr>
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<br />Tom Ripleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12154083762954009666noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5524335422956400981.post-23513937107096741992014-12-23T15:42:00.003-08:002014-12-23T15:49:45.745-08:002014 - Another year...<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
2014 has been a bloody great year! It seems to have gone on forever. It started slowly with unemployment, which meant lots of Gritstone but no money for trips further away. Then it all got a bit exciting. I got a job and got married in quick succession. The rest of the year has been a bit of a blur with lots of ace weekend's away to cool places with even cooler people. Below, in no particular order, are some of the photographic highlights. Nikki and I are off to Kenya on boxing with the aim of climbing Mount Kenya. Here's to 2015, I'm sure you'll be a good one.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KSzgxFBH4gg/VJnxE7UOrBI/AAAAAAAABpw/mcDGHsjhxXs/s1600/0759_050368.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KSzgxFBH4gg/VJnxE7UOrBI/AAAAAAAABpw/mcDGHsjhxXs/s1600/0759_050368.jpg" height="400" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My wife completing her Ironman. What a hero!</td></tr>
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</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-m_PQwdD39c0/VJn9O2FtSNI/AAAAAAAABtI/O6OQg0SWCeo/s1600/S0401348.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-m_PQwdD39c0/VJn9O2FtSNI/AAAAAAAABtI/O6OQg0SWCeo/s1600/S0401348.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Malcolm Scott and Clair Muir on Concrete Chimney. Later that day I slayed the Strand, finally leading it after three previous attempts spread over seven years.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ql7NPGa4rzI/VJn9WzXX2-I/AAAAAAAABtQ/g8c0REGOZJM/s1600/S0682145.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ql7NPGa4rzI/VJn9WzXX2-I/AAAAAAAABtQ/g8c0REGOZJM/s1600/S0682145.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dad on Communist Convert on Raven Crag Thirlmere. An underrated gem.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/--j8MDXuGJqA/VJnxnYB7svI/AAAAAAAABqI/nd4eCLtBTKA/s1600/DSCF1052.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/--j8MDXuGJqA/VJnxnYB7svI/AAAAAAAABqI/nd4eCLtBTKA/s1600/DSCF1052.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I've done a lot of great climbing with this chap this year. Here he is, cool as a cucumber, at St Govan's East.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mJz9kZhMoPk/VJnxN4vW4cI/AAAAAAAABp4/O7THYrDPtgU/s1600/DSCF1061.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mJz9kZhMoPk/VJnxN4vW4cI/AAAAAAAABp4/O7THYrDPtgU/s1600/DSCF1061.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Leap at Easter. Strong scenes.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hcPcmXVg5_0/VJnxkhCflqI/AAAAAAAABqA/P_DnZKt0hLk/s1600/DSCF1173.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hcPcmXVg5_0/VJnxkhCflqI/AAAAAAAABqA/P_DnZKt0hLk/s1600/DSCF1173.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Malcolm Scott leading Lyme Cryme after work. My first route as a married man.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-FBYLbnN6a2U/VJnxvgkF0KI/AAAAAAAABqQ/zk1KslY96es/s1600/DSCF1213.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-FBYLbnN6a2U/VJnxvgkF0KI/AAAAAAAABqQ/zk1KslY96es/s1600/DSCF1213.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me showing off my legs on Dark Side of the Sun at Boulder Ruckle, mid way through a terrifying bank holiday extravaganza. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UfOZmkAIHa8/VJnySQZ8O3I/AAAAAAAABqg/ixkmLZSmjbk/s1600/DSCF9038.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UfOZmkAIHa8/VJnySQZ8O3I/AAAAAAAABqg/ixkmLZSmjbk/s1600/DSCF9038.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Leading the top pitch of Daydreams at Mewsford on Stag Doo. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-s1dSJx3kuBM/VJnyYb8tOcI/AAAAAAAABqo/ezyUQtvJpio/s1600/DSCF9065.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-s1dSJx3kuBM/VJnyYb8tOcI/AAAAAAAABqo/ezyUQtvJpio/s1600/DSCF9065.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Team Stag - Woof!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RFU-kZrMPfU/VJnx2ZuGIFI/AAAAAAAABqY/2cpCsfeUbEI/s1600/IMG_0647.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RFU-kZrMPfU/VJnx2ZuGIFI/AAAAAAAABqY/2cpCsfeUbEI/s1600/IMG_0647.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wedding scenes...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RaUtvc8_RVQ/VJnydPR92oI/AAAAAAAABqw/l9IHiBr1KeI/s1600/IMG_8022.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RaUtvc8_RVQ/VJnydPR92oI/AAAAAAAABqw/l9IHiBr1KeI/s1600/IMG_8022.jpg" height="128" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">More wedding scenes...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4A5Ud4aAuQk/VJnynRW3iCI/AAAAAAAABq4/zDKW-j6fc5A/s1600/S0112163.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4A5Ud4aAuQk/VJnynRW3iCI/AAAAAAAABq4/zDKW-j6fc5A/s1600/S0112163.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Caitlin climbing Preying Mantis. Dad dragged me up this as my second ever E1 back in 2003. It was great to go back and lead it one August evening.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-reIyDVB2nHk/VJnywB6JfPI/AAAAAAAABrA/MVfv9rP6vug/s1600/S0242071.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-reIyDVB2nHk/VJnywB6JfPI/AAAAAAAABrA/MVfv9rP6vug/s1600/S0242071.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hamish Dunn pitched up beneath the Sella Towers in the Dolomites. Bad weather meant out trip with less productive than we'd hoped but we still managed a couple of routes. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-gHaRLGY3W4Y/VJny0c0pK-I/AAAAAAAABrI/H1HXUSglii0/s1600/S0321549.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-gHaRLGY3W4Y/VJny0c0pK-I/AAAAAAAABrI/H1HXUSglii0/s1600/S0321549.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Duncan crossing the river after an unsuccessful afterwork jaunt to Cheedale. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-J9li9Uxezgs/VJn20XH1TFI/AAAAAAAABs4/F7R98R4Ve9k/s1600/DSC00250.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-J9li9Uxezgs/VJn20XH1TFI/AAAAAAAABs4/F7R98R4Ve9k/s1600/DSC00250.jpg" height="400" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nikki loving Ordinary Route on Idwal Slabs in the rain.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qhifOTsmrb8/VJnzOn0F6zI/AAAAAAAABrY/AGTnLLIzTWg/s1600/S0462111.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qhifOTsmrb8/VJnzOn0F6zI/AAAAAAAABrY/AGTnLLIzTWg/s1600/S0462111.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Having a doze beneath the Rocher du Midi, whilst waiting for the clag to burn off. It didn't. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-YbV6yC2QjJ4/VJn0tk-urGI/AAAAAAAABro/BWgPmrcuv6A/s1600/DSC00368.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-YbV6yC2QjJ4/VJn0tk-urGI/AAAAAAAABro/BWgPmrcuv6A/s1600/DSC00368.jpg" height="400" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Isla Wormald experiencing hot aches for the first time, after a stormy ascent of Christmas Crack, and hating it. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tzTdj9FsqSU/VJn08XeIcUI/AAAAAAAABrw/mOJC8ZLjrVI/s1600/DSC00393.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tzTdj9FsqSU/VJn08XeIcUI/AAAAAAAABrw/mOJC8ZLjrVI/s1600/DSC00393.jpg" height="400" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tim Osbourne at the top of the difficulties on Pot of Gold. My only winter climb in 2014. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AfHMHmt5guI/VJn1PlJq55I/AAAAAAAABsA/o9kKxLuXkAM/s1600/P4260278.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AfHMHmt5guI/VJn1PlJq55I/AAAAAAAABsA/o9kKxLuXkAM/s1600/P4260278.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rob, Dunc, Heather, Hamish and Me psyched to climb on the morning of my wedding. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3Px7i2TTvEg/VJn1c0bAUmI/AAAAAAAABsM/zx1H4bl9CWg/s1600/P4260292.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3Px7i2TTvEg/VJn1c0bAUmI/AAAAAAAABsM/zx1H4bl9CWg/s1600/P4260292.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me questing up Helfenstein's Struggle on the morning of my wedding. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-c9uZj74d2FE/VJn1fiRjn6I/AAAAAAAABsY/m4e_tDOi63A/s1600/P9171222.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-c9uZj74d2FE/VJn1fiRjn6I/AAAAAAAABsY/m4e_tDOi63A/s1600/P9171222.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My family and other animals (Robin) on holiday in the Calanques.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-sZGwltjVhcA/VJn2E0ucKaI/AAAAAAAABsg/HqUy5BrI6fE/s1600/S0272190.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-sZGwltjVhcA/VJn2E0ucKaI/AAAAAAAABsg/HqUy5BrI6fE/s1600/S0272190.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">About to set off up Dreadnought's seconding pitch. One of my best leads of 2014. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ajQ4KVqhDzE/VJn2E0YNKlI/AAAAAAAABso/bF24Vs1dHr0/s1600/S0862291.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ajQ4KVqhDzE/VJn2E0YNKlI/AAAAAAAABso/bF24Vs1dHr0/s1600/S0862291.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nikki re-learning to love climbing at the Calanques. Psyched to do more climbing with her in 2014.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ymcIjwXTGGk/VJn1cp1-NSI/AAAAAAAABsI/QeSo910t7to/s1600/DSC00411.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ymcIjwXTGGk/VJn1cp1-NSI/AAAAAAAABsI/QeSo910t7to/s1600/DSC00411.jpg" height="400" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our bags all packed up for Mount Kenya - Excited!</td></tr>
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<br />Tom Ripleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12154083762954009666noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5524335422956400981.post-38293622252108461672014-10-18T00:43:00.000-07:002014-10-18T00:43:00.399-07:00Clambering<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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As usual I've not written much on here for a while. Climbing, work and plain old life have gotten in the way. Below are some photos of some recent highlights.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tHCnayaTUO8/VEIMoAAOTqI/AAAAAAAABoM/o4HwMsbi67I/s1600/S0132168.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tHCnayaTUO8/VEIMoAAOTqI/AAAAAAAABoM/o4HwMsbi67I/s1600/S0132168.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A late August trip to the Southwest with Duncan. We climbed Pat Littlejohn's outstanding route Dreadnought at Berryhead one of my best climbing experiences of 2014. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UFFQWQEZY80/VEIM1zIsenI/AAAAAAAABoU/4aPXhKQvpqk/s1600/S0232183.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UFFQWQEZY80/VEIM1zIsenI/AAAAAAAABoU/4aPXhKQvpqk/s1600/S0232183.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Duncan mid crux on Dreadnought. Seconding I managed this bit fine, but got pumped and scared in the cramped, sandy final traverse so pulled on a peg. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zpJruWcQLXg/VEINJ58s3UI/AAAAAAAABok/BjI_YOFF-bE/s1600/S0272188.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zpJruWcQLXg/VEINJ58s3UI/AAAAAAAABok/BjI_YOFF-bE/s1600/S0272188.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me - about to get involved with pitch two.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1HvArIA-oIU/VEIM7E68-8I/AAAAAAAABoc/I2BOjJ_POGg/s1600/S0292193.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1HvArIA-oIU/VEIM7E68-8I/AAAAAAAABoc/I2BOjJ_POGg/s1600/S0292193.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Questing upwards before making improbable moves to gain a horizontal letter box. More tenuous climbing followed before I reached the huge thread belay. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-rKbxdATmVSo/VEINWyrvfNI/AAAAAAAABos/01pS8-_TD3I/s1600/S0332202.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-rKbxdATmVSo/VEINWyrvfNI/AAAAAAAABos/01pS8-_TD3I/s1600/S0332202.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The next day we climbed Malbogies in the Avon Gorge. A total sandbag at HVS. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OSxQSwUO8Nw/VEITJ0fd-aI/AAAAAAAABpc/OEqflAg-Ihs/s1600/S0042217.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OSxQSwUO8Nw/VEITJ0fd-aI/AAAAAAAABpc/OEqflAg-Ihs/s1600/S0042217.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The next weekend - rather unpredictably - we found ourselves at Gogarth. We headed down to Red Walls for some chossaineering. I hadn't climbed on Red Walls since a harrowing ascent of Red Wall in 2009. This time Duncan and I climbed Wendigo, which felt more straightforward.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-DDqzWR0s4Pc/VEIMmpZ2wrI/AAAAAAAABoE/9oDF686ucJU/s1600/S0062221.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-DDqzWR0s4Pc/VEIMmpZ2wrI/AAAAAAAABoE/9oDF686ucJU/s1600/S0062221.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Duncan and I halfway up Wendigo. We climbed the route in two long pitches, belaying at the the Blue Rembered Hill stance, which worked well. The rest of the day was a comedy of backing off, with attempt at T-Rex and the Trap, before an ascent of Britomartis as the sun set. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1E_dNwO9sjo/VEINyhAvqoI/AAAAAAAABpM/1ab648-MshM/s1600/S0922302.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1E_dNwO9sjo/VEINyhAvqoI/AAAAAAAABpM/1ab648-MshM/s1600/S0922302.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In September Nikki and I went on a family holiday to the Calanques in the South of France. With perfect limestone by the sea it was impossible not to have a good time. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-de4Nk-F-x_8/VEIMN2ul2RI/AAAAAAAABns/tcEt8tDgRB8/s1600/P9141193.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-de4Nk-F-x_8/VEIMN2ul2RI/AAAAAAAABns/tcEt8tDgRB8/s1600/P9141193.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dad and Nic climbing the Petit Aiguille on the first day.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-o5nxJ1RjEpw/VEILqX6RVOI/AAAAAAAABnM/zhGl3zXe_Jw/s1600/FullSizeRender%2B(4).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-o5nxJ1RjEpw/VEILqX6RVOI/AAAAAAAABnM/zhGl3zXe_Jw/s1600/FullSizeRender%2B(4).jpg" height="400" width="341" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It rained on the second day so Nikki and cycled 21km and 1500m vertical up Mount Ventoux, one of the most famous hill stages of the Tour du France. Here I reach the top after having been unceremoniously dropped by my wife for the last 5km. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iRmnhTGKxN0/VEILlHCwzYI/AAAAAAAABnE/coPQWcmJTRw/s1600/FullSizeRender%2B(2).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iRmnhTGKxN0/VEILlHCwzYI/AAAAAAAABnE/coPQWcmJTRw/s1600/FullSizeRender%2B(2).jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nikki at the top.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-eHUvWehFyAs/VEIMW7sxOMI/AAAAAAAABn8/kUnuBiEJdWM/s1600/P9171226.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-eHUvWehFyAs/VEIMW7sxOMI/AAAAAAAABn8/kUnuBiEJdWM/s1600/P9171226.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The G Unit - both well into their eighties and still loving life. Inspiring. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qlr__44vIlk/VEINaIg7uAI/AAAAAAAABo0/NM4mTgXgqnY/s1600/S0722267.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qlr__44vIlk/VEINaIg7uAI/AAAAAAAABo0/NM4mTgXgqnY/s1600/S0722267.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">More climbing. Dad on le Pouce Intergral.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-c9kq2pB-9j4/VEINmPlKcBI/AAAAAAAABo8/Ru1jxBUDBo4/s1600/S0802280.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-c9kq2pB-9j4/VEINmPlKcBI/AAAAAAAABo8/Ru1jxBUDBo4/s1600/S0802280.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dad cranking on Super Sirène, a brilliant 6b first climbed by Gaston Rebuffat back in 1941.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GeCAQW2ftH8/VEINxpWGYOI/AAAAAAAABpE/m1u9sgCv7UU/s1600/S0842287.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GeCAQW2ftH8/VEINxpWGYOI/AAAAAAAABpE/m1u9sgCv7UU/s1600/S0842287.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nikki getting to the top of the Saphir. Another brilliant climb.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-V1BGbjnBoQQ/VEIL12QWUMI/AAAAAAAABnc/Tsw5LwSPH3M/s1600/IMG_20140928_142956901%231.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-V1BGbjnBoQQ/VEIL12QWUMI/AAAAAAAABnc/Tsw5LwSPH3M/s1600/IMG_20140928_142956901%231.jpg" height="400" width="223" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Autumn equals Gritstone season. Me leading Kayak at Curbar. I seconded this last year and couldn't imagine leading it. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-nRAJ453x9b0/VEIL2bmzHeI/AAAAAAAABnk/Dw__ivbhxec/s1600/DSC00055.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-nRAJ453x9b0/VEIL2bmzHeI/AAAAAAAABnk/Dw__ivbhxec/s1600/DSC00055.jpg" height="400" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Duncan reaching the top of Bird's Nest Crack at Almscliff. Flo's second ever trad climb. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-aT3ugChoQ_k/VEILSdh_nDI/AAAAAAAABm0/xlk5k4mRJKs/s1600/DSC00070.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-aT3ugChoQ_k/VEILSdh_nDI/AAAAAAAABm0/xlk5k4mRJKs/s1600/DSC00070.jpg" height="400" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me at the Top of Great Western - with a view like this you can see why they call it t'best crag in t'world. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Rf8QnaS6OXA/VEILhfVGd1I/AAAAAAAABm8/geurFwheYQ4/s1600/DSC00080.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Rf8QnaS6OXA/VEILhfVGd1I/AAAAAAAABm8/geurFwheYQ4/s1600/DSC00080.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Duncan seconding Great Western as the sunset. </td></tr>
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Tom Ripleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12154083762954009666noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5524335422956400981.post-22470398148585343652014-08-27T16:08:00.000-07:002014-08-27T16:08:45.564-07:00Reviving the Lake District<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AuFP01KzqZs/U_5gjbrWNBI/AAAAAAAABjc/KdNuzVmU0Qk/s1600/S0682146.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AuFP01KzqZs/U_5gjbrWNBI/AAAAAAAABjc/KdNuzVmU0Qk/s1600/S0682146.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Dad climbing Communist Convert.</i></td></tr>
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I've spent the last couple of weekends up in the Lakes and have managed to get a bit of climbing in. On the first weekend despite a less than ideal forecast I headed out with my Dad. When I was a student I'd have probably laid in on an iffy forecast but five days of work and five more days to follow is a stern motivator. We headed to Raven Crag, Thirlmere which was brought to my attention by the <a href="https://www.thebmc.co.uk/arcteryx-lakeland-revival" target="_blank">Arc'teryx Lakeland Revival</a>, a great initiative to encourage folk to climb some of the less frequently ascended routes in the Lakes. I'd climbed at the crag a few times before and it was great to revisit. We climbed Communist Convert, which was really good and not at all dirty. Go and do it.<br />
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After that we headed to the even more esoteric Thackmell Crags on the side of Thirlmere. After bushwhacking our way through vertical grass I did a great E1 wall called Yowie in the drizzle. Still hungry for more we headed to Harrop Tarn Crags, also known as Fairview Dome - don't get too excited the resemblance is only passing - but by the time we arrived it was properly raining. We called it a day and headed to Needle Sports to collect my free chalk bag.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-r2Z-W8nxOe0/U_5g4SGFnUI/AAAAAAAABjk/HINZx_YCiGM/s1600/S0112163.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-r2Z-W8nxOe0/U_5g4SGFnUI/AAAAAAAABjk/HINZx_YCiGM/s1600/S0112163.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Caitlin climbing the third pitch of Preying Mantis.</i></td></tr>
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I was back up again for the August bank holiday weekend. I wasn't really supposed to be climbing but managed to convince my sister to come and hold my ropes on Sunday evening. We climbed Preying Mantis on Goat Crag. I'd last climbed this in 2003 or 2004 with my Dad. It was the second E1 I ever seconded. I got dragged up it. I can distinctly remember watching Dad lead the crux and a big positive hold on the second pitch, which was still there. The climb is brilliant, quite low in the grade, well protected, clean and dry. Saying that the top pitch felt quite tricky for 4c with darkness fast approaching.<br />
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The guys at Arc'teryx have made a brilliant little film about climbing in the Lakes. If watching this and the prospect of a free chalk bag for just climbing a route on the list doesn't motivate you to get up there than I'm afraid I can't help you.<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="270" src="http://tv.thebmc.co.uk/video/arcteryx-lakeland-revival/embed" width="480"></iframe><a href="http://tv.thebmc.co.uk/video/arcteryx-lakeland-revival">Arc'teryx Lakeland Revival</a>
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<br />Tom Ripleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12154083762954009666noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5524335422956400981.post-52305436814308381622014-08-15T09:48:00.001-07:002014-08-15T09:49:31.535-07:00Recent Antics It's not that I haven't been getting out. I have. I just haven't had time to write about. Here are some photos of some (but by no means all) recent antics in no particular order:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wADG1WmLpJg/U-4xTGUnLrI/AAAAAAAABh8/W1cFhPF1DD4/s1600/0759_050368.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wADG1WmLpJg/U-4xTGUnLrI/AAAAAAAABh8/W1cFhPF1DD4/s1600/0759_050368.jpg" height="400" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Have I told you about my wife the Iron Man? Nikki chuffed to bits crossing the finish of her first Iron Man.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qt6Y2mqudX4/U-4xtBzKjDI/AAAAAAAABiM/ruwvSwOMsaI/s1600/S0041243.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qt6Y2mqudX4/U-4xtBzKjDI/AAAAAAAABiM/ruwvSwOMsaI/s1600/S0041243.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Seconding the Gates on the Cromlech. I ha a great day out with Heather Florence, despite backing of Left Wall for the second time. I've seconded it now, maybe one day I'll be good enough and brave enough to lead it. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vq3VoMfSzgg/U-4xsyOvZjI/AAAAAAAABiI/8XjZx2ETCtk/s1600/S0211310.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vq3VoMfSzgg/U-4xsyOvZjI/AAAAAAAABiI/8XjZx2ETCtk/s1600/S0211310.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Onsight soloing without a clue what you are climbing. Does a climbing experience get more pure than this? Malcolm Scott leading the way at Helsby while I show my enthusiasm. Photo Ben Silvestre. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_mwxuTg7S_w/U-4x-86f0fI/AAAAAAAABig/oWF-kgFdgko/s1600/S0242071.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_mwxuTg7S_w/U-4x-86f0fI/AAAAAAAABig/oWF-kgFdgko/s1600/S0242071.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hamish Dunn camped by the Sella Tower during a week of awful weather in the Dolomites. I now have a severe case of van envy after spending a week in Hamish's VW T5. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Cr3vTrMlPcg/U-4x-ijO10I/AAAAAAAABic/oYdXgZx5EMo/s1600/S0321549.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Cr3vTrMlPcg/U-4x-ijO10I/AAAAAAAABic/oYdXgZx5EMo/s1600/S0321549.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Duncan wading back across the river after an after work trip to Cheedale. I got spanked by Meditation but got up with a rest and a point of aid and Duncan forgot his rock shoes.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-L9igz5wGHgk/U-4yF-Nu8UI/AAAAAAAABis/Sf9mnREGbBA/s1600/S0332085.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-L9igz5wGHgk/U-4yF-Nu8UI/AAAAAAAABis/Sf9mnREGbBA/s1600/S0332085.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hamish at the top of the Kasnapoff route on the Second Sella Tower. The next day we managed another route on the Sella Towers in between showers. Before escaping to Switzerland, where the forecast was better. Guess what, it rained. Oh well. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vLTERMNc2jw/U-4yfH6uPDI/AAAAAAAABi8/YB_yq9uKa-U/s1600/S0401348.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vLTERMNc2jw/U-4yfH6uPDI/AAAAAAAABi8/YB_yq9uKa-U/s1600/S0401348.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Malcolm Scott and Clair Muir having a ball on Concrete Chimney in Wen Zawn. This was one of the first routes I did at Gogarth back in 2007 and it was a pleasure to climb it again. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7TSwSPm4E5Y/U-4yeZ3955I/AAAAAAAABi0/gbCR7fH_E6s/s1600/S0452108.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7TSwSPm4E5Y/U-4yeZ3955I/AAAAAAAABi0/gbCR7fH_E6s/s1600/S0452108.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me having a snooze beneath the Rocher du Midi. After our abortive trip to Switzerland Hamish and I tried our luck in the Chartreuse Massif. We got to the base of the route and the clag came in so thick we could barely see the base of the route. We sat and waited expecting it to clear. It didn't and we came back empty handed. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-L8KY0wu8tYU/U-4ykrALoLI/AAAAAAAABjE/pooSBcujYPA/s1600/S0551385.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-L8KY0wu8tYU/U-4ykrALoLI/AAAAAAAABjE/pooSBcujYPA/s1600/S0551385.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Clair Muir leading Britomartis. The next day Ben Silvestre and I did Bluebottle a brilliant rising traverse that starts at the same point. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--MohThskEG4/U-4ysBy-RuI/AAAAAAAABjM/IhbIZ08IDM4/s1600/S0731422.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--MohThskEG4/U-4ysBy-RuI/AAAAAAAABjM/IhbIZ08IDM4/s1600/S0731422.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Duncan leading Sirplum at Cheedale. My thirtieth route in <a href="http://www.needlesports.com/NeedleSports/hardrock/hardrock.htm" target="_blank">Hard Rock</a> and a pretty tricky one to boot. I've got to do thirty more to tick the book. Needless to say that means a lot of routes in Scotland and finding someone who wants to aid the Scoop. </td></tr>
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Tom Ripleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12154083762954009666noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5524335422956400981.post-928196943267483462014-05-14T07:00:00.000-07:002014-05-18T14:36:05.968-07:00Choss botherer's anonymous<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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The past few weeks have been a bit of a whirlwind. I've got married, got a job and done hardly any climbing on solid rock. After a pretty dry spring it had to rain sometime, unfortunately that sometime was the day leading before my wedding. It was so wet in Sheffield that I left my gear at home and headed to the Peak for tea and cake. Inside Outside James recommended Fingal's Flue a perma-dry caving expedition at Stoney. I dashed back to Sheffield to grab my gear. The climb was ace and dry too. A sort of muddy bridging exercise followed by posting one's self through a man sized letter box.<br />
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The next day was the big day and needless to say I was keen to get a climb in beforehand. Dreams of Left Unconquerable or Flying Buttress Direct were thwarted by the weather. Despite this a big gang of us headed to Stanage and thrutched our way up Helfenstein's Struggle before getting dressed up smart and heading off to the church. It felt pretty committing which was pertinent. The climb was a right leveler. All of us gave it a good go. I needed pulling out on lead, a couple of us couldn't (or wouldn't fit through) and it took a well known E5 leader two attempts on second! The rest of the day was perfect.<br />
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After work on Monday I headed to High Tor with Malcolm Scott. We climbed the classic Lyme Cryme, which was brilliant and at the cheeky end of the E3 spectrum (I had one rest on the crux), getting to the top just before dark. By far and away the most solid route I've done recently and not a bad first route as a married man. <br />
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The following weekend the forecast was less than ideal. The only place which looked half descent was Swanage, which I'd not climbed at before. I spent the three days, getting pumped and scared in the sun at Boulder Ruckle. The climbing is Swanage is steeper than Pembroke, the rock is much looser and the steep, tottering top outs feel pretty harrowing. Duncan and I spent the weekend ticking our way through a load of classic Hard VSs and E1s. As well as Ocean Boulevard a brilliant juggy E3 and Craggsy one hundred tick that Duncan cruised.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me inside Fingal's Flue.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Squirming my way through Helfenstein's</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Excited! Me and Duncan just before Nikki walked in.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Walking out of the Church to Here Comes the Sun. Very, very happy and a little bit teary. </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Malcolm on Lyme Cryme. </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Duncan on Jo. The next bit is ridiculous. </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Duncan and Clare on the top pitches of Thunderball and Jo respectively. Steep juggy fun and not much between them grade wise.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Getting my powerful legs out on Dark Side of the Sun - no pushover at E1. </td></tr>
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<br />Tom Ripleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12154083762954009666noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5524335422956400981.post-6099777432547685942014-04-23T14:59:00.002-07:002014-04-23T14:59:34.942-07:00Loving the white rockWhen I lived in North Wales I used to avoid Limestone like the plauge and openly slag it off (with the exception of Pembroke, which I've always thought amazing) to all and sundry. The truth is I'm not very good at climbing on Limestone, mainly because it is steep and technical!<br />
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Since moving to Sheffield, where the options are Gritstone or Limestone, I've climbed on Limestone a fair bit, mainly because it's good to mix things up. Also because getting my friend to climb on Gritstone with a rope is nigh on impossible.<br />
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Over the last month or so. I've done a load of ace climbing at a load of really cool crags: High Tor, Chee Tor, Stoney, Staden, Pic Tor, Beeston. All the routes I've done have been ace. Even Windover, which I can't do. Stoney 5c is really hard! Probably the route I enjoyed most was Delicatessen, though I really enjoyed slapping my way up Black Grub at Beeston on second. If only I could climb like that on lead! An honorary mention should go to Chee Tor Girdle, one of the best bad routes ever.<br />
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I spent the Easter weekend climbing down in Pembroke. The weather was ace, save for a quick shower on Sunday afternoon. The craic on the crag was ace and in the pub it was even better. The climbing in Pembroke is out of this world. When I was in the States last autumn and Duncan kept going on about how none of the world classics we were doing were as good as the climbing in Pembroke I thought he was mad. Now I agree with him and wonder why we went. The best route of the weekend for me was Beast from the Undergrowth in the Leap, thought I did enjoy fighting my way up Springboard in a perverse kind of way. Pembroke felt way more fun with a bit fitness in me, though I was still pretty knackered from four days of climbing. Cheers to Will Harris for climbing with me! I'm well psyched for more Peak Limestone evenings and trip to Pembroke over the summer. I think might treat myself to a copy of Craggy's 100 Classic Limestone Climbs in Britain when I get paid.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Duncan - approach the belay on Delicatessen. I was glad I managed to remain composed and didn't take the uberlob here.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">DC pick pocketing his way through Darius on Delicatessen pitch two. </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">DC trying Wee Doris, before the lactic and irrational fear overcame him. </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Climbing above the Windy Ledge. A ridiculous place to go climbing after work. </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Duncan on Pocket Symphony at Beeston. Thread-tastically good!</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the other end of the rescuers rope for a change: Belaying some unfortunates out of a very wet Preposterous Tales. </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Will Harris - seconding a greasy Springboard. His worst route of the weekend and one of my best! </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Huntsman's Leap. Just the best crag ever. Simon Kimber on Beast From the Undergrowth, Ed and Adam Booth on Darkness at Noon and Jimmy Marjot on Mythical Monster. </td></tr>
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<br />Tom Ripleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12154083762954009666noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5524335422956400981.post-20245082382540082132014-04-03T13:40:00.001-07:002014-04-03T13:40:54.828-07:00Pembroke STAG<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-43ayTnfuPhY/Uz3FVd7LXNI/AAAAAAAABek/CZH0RVbC7rM/s1600/DSCF9065.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-43ayTnfuPhY/Uz3FVd7LXNI/AAAAAAAABek/CZH0RVbC7rM/s1600/DSCF9065.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>We couldn't find a stag, but thankfully the St Govan's Inn had a cow which worked well as a substitute! </i></td></tr>
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I'm getting married on April 26. Last weekend was my Stag do. Best man Ollie decided Pembroke was the best option. I managed to survive Friday night relatively unscathed. The weather was crap in the morning but by early afternoon it had cleared up. Unfortunately by this point the tide had started coming in. Rob, Duncan, Gwen and I hot footed it to Mewsford with our sights set on Daydreams. I abseiled down to see Rob do some pretty exciting boulder jumping to get to the base of the route. Duncan followed suit. My turn. The sea was coming in fast. Rob and Duncan's route across was now underwater. I had no choice but to sack it off or take a big jump. I jumped. Gwen tried to follow but the sea was too high by now. Thankfully I had clipped an jumar and a gri gri to the abseil rope so she could jug out.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Rob and Duncan boulder hopping their way to the bottom of Daydreams.</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Me psyched to be climbing my first Extreme Rock tick of the year: Day Dreams.</i></td></tr>
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Day dreams was ace. An exciting V0 boulder problem got us on a ledge that was safe from the tide. Rob lead the greasy first pitch, Duncan the tricky middle pitch and I lead the fun top pitch. The route reminded me how much I love sea cliff climbing and the great adventures you can have on them.<br />
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After a fun night in the St Goven's Inn and a midnight swim I woke up the next day hangover free. The weather was much better and Ollie and I managed a good haul of routes at Trevellan: The Hole, Enter the Goat, Soldier of Fortune and Sunlover. I finished the day with an ace HVS called Frontline before heading back to Sheffield, via Stratford for some unknown reason. God I love Pembroke.<br />
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<br />Tom Ripleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12154083762954009666noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5524335422956400981.post-57812860435585665302014-01-25T11:51:00.002-08:002014-01-25T11:51:52.843-08:00West Face of Leaning Tower Video<div style="text-align: left;">
I was supposed to spend most of September and October 2013 climbing in Yosemite Valley. I had hoped to climb multiple routes on El Captain and Half Dome. Unfortunately it wasn't to be. First fires made the Valley too smokey, cutting our planned seven weeks to five. Finally we arrived in Yosemite and after spending a week getting to grips with the place, the Federal Government shut down and we were expelled from the Park. We spent two and half weeks in limbo, climbing in Red Rocks and Bishop, waiting for the government to sort its' self out. Late in the trip and after so much bad luck motivation was low. We bailed on the Nose. However as a consolation prize Ollie and I managed to make an ascent of the Leaning Tower West Face. This is one of the small walls in Yosemite but the route goes through some wild terrain. This is the film of our climb. Cheers to <a href="http://vimeo.com/guyvg/videos" target="_blank">Guy</a> for editing it into something watchable.</div>
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="281" mozallowfullscreen="" src="//player.vimeo.com/video/84622057" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="500"></iframe> </div>
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<a href="http://vimeo.com/84622057">The Leaning Tower of Yosemite</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/guyvg">Guy Van Greuning</a> on <a href="https://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Still the dream! El Cap from the top of the Leaning Tower. </i></td></tr>
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Tom Ripleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12154083762954009666noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5524335422956400981.post-58014002543511999392013-12-31T15:23:00.002-08:002013-12-31T15:34:33.322-08:002013 in pictures. <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Climbing is a frustrating activity, no mater how good your year as been you always wish you'd done more. Looking back at 2013 whilst I've not done lots of the routes I'd wanted to I have done a lot routes that have been on my ticklist for a very long time and a heck of a lots of good climbing. As the reality of full time employments kicks in in 2014 I don't think I'll manage to do as much climbing. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Despite some of the best winter conditions in recent years I only managed a couple of days out. Here is me psyched out of my tree beneath Pillar Chimney on Clogwyn Du. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jlQoOjCIPYM/UsMftBFmXoI/AAAAAAAABXA/LmPlfzlnduE/s1600/DSCN3450.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jlQoOjCIPYM/UsMftBFmXoI/AAAAAAAABXA/LmPlfzlnduE/s400/DSCN3450.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Being a poor time manager I spent much of my final year sat in the library procrastinating and eating cake. I did manage to sneak out occasionally - like this early season trip to Castell Helen with Mark Reeves. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CG_JPjvxFZA/UsMf3bthUWI/AAAAAAAABXI/zy_7lcR1Tqo/s1600/DSC00556.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CG_JPjvxFZA/UsMf3bthUWI/AAAAAAAABXI/zy_7lcR1Tqo/s400/DSC00556.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ollie seconding Merry Monk at the sadly banned Lazonby Crag. The Easter Holidays were frustrating. The Lakes was freezing cold and covered in snow, but there was no winter climbing to be had. Ollie and I retreated to Cumbria's best kept secret: the Eden Valley.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zsMlzuf9uZw/UsMg3GKYxfI/AAAAAAAABXY/w67aU44EvaA/s1600/DSCN3592.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zsMlzuf9uZw/UsMg3GKYxfI/AAAAAAAABXY/w67aU44EvaA/s400/DSCN3592.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">As if leading Armathwaite's the Exorcist wasn't enough Ollie stripped off and jumped in to cool down. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-X9sONV2Ph5s/UsMg6TosedI/AAAAAAAABXg/nijISYvf8hc/s1600/DSCN3706.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-X9sONV2Ph5s/UsMg6TosedI/AAAAAAAABXg/nijISYvf8hc/s400/DSCN3706.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Climbing a deserted Point Five Gully on perfect spring day. The day previously we'd failed miserably to climb the Cullin Ridge in winter. This wasn't a bad consolation. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-t1IzGLK4dkI/UsMg7X_CbqI/AAAAAAAABXo/erHbsk19DUI/s1600/DSCN3769.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-t1IzGLK4dkI/UsMg7X_CbqI/AAAAAAAABXo/erHbsk19DUI/s400/DSCN3769.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sampling the local crag whilst on house hunting trips to Sheffield. Gwen Lancashire cruising Curbar's Insanity. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-SHyxIrI7EnM/UsMhs7eAYNI/AAAAAAAABXw/BB8JHCSS88o/s1600/DSCN3812.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-SHyxIrI7EnM/UsMhs7eAYNI/AAAAAAAABXw/BB8JHCSS88o/s400/DSCN3812.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Doing ten routes at Tremadog during the 2013 Tremadog Festival. Ollie leading the improbably blank Harvey Proctor's Spanking Slap.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ogmore - a crag for those who are weary of life. Ollie took me down to his local playground for an evening dose of fear on Exposure Explosion. We bailed due to rain and a lack of moral fibre on my part. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ShBSkjB4u_k/UsMiYRm5vnI/AAAAAAAABYI/DjZLSyUPXLg/s1600/IMG_0325.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ShBSkjB4u_k/UsMiYRm5vnI/AAAAAAAABYI/DjZLSyUPXLg/s400/IMG_0325.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Climbing Great Wall on Cloggy in the evening sun. I got dragged up by Luke Hunt but it was still brilliant. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--c_nB3_Hza8/UsMi1l2HiaI/AAAAAAAABYY/mMF7pkgLlss/s1600/IMG_0365.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--c_nB3_Hza8/UsMi1l2HiaI/AAAAAAAABYY/mMF7pkgLlss/s400/IMG_0365.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Luke biving beneath Cloggy around the summer solstice. The crag was bone dry for weeks on end this summer and I managed to climb many long held ambitions. The West Buttress Eliminate and Shrike did not disappoint. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-VNJkNn8XoWw/UsMjgrK_E0I/AAAAAAAABYk/raC-E8HI3H8/s1600/IMG_0457.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-VNJkNn8XoWw/UsMjgrK_E0I/AAAAAAAABYk/raC-E8HI3H8/s400/IMG_0457.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Lakes was also bone dry. Jimmy Marjot loving the top pitch of Astra. The next day we climbed Central Buttress and Saxon. The rock on Scafell is incomparable. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eCxCaAc1chw/UsMstFSLdII/AAAAAAAABY0/cmqsjDwK128/s1600/IMG_0555.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eCxCaAc1chw/UsMstFSLdII/AAAAAAAABY0/cmqsjDwK128/s400/IMG_0555.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Getting engaged to Nikki on the Menai Bridge - psyched for our wedding next April. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-adDcFVDRdNw/UsMvF-p-eqI/AAAAAAAABZc/4CM6-DNr76I/s1600/IMG_0844.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-adDcFVDRdNw/UsMvF-p-eqI/AAAAAAAABZc/4CM6-DNr76I/s400/IMG_0844.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Climbing five pitches on Dinas Mot after work with my Dad. The next day we climbed Longland's Climb and White Slab on Cloggy.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Family Holiday to Cornwall. Here is Nikki and Dad on a team ascent of Commando Ridge - undoubtedly on of the UK's best easy climbs. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-f3B9NGgJO0w/UsMtiJ3Ft7I/AAAAAAAABZE/ElNpGjES5U4/s1600/IMG_0952.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-f3B9NGgJO0w/UsMtiJ3Ft7I/AAAAAAAABZE/ElNpGjES5U4/s400/IMG_0952.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The other highlight of the week was the Extreme Rock tick Astral Stroll - an E1 that thinks it's E3.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7otLIPz0PaU/UsMumDsCCvI/AAAAAAAABZU/n06JS_4cRac/s1600/IMG_1056.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7otLIPz0PaU/UsMumDsCCvI/AAAAAAAABZU/n06JS_4cRac/s400/IMG_1056.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In August Nikki and I left North Wales and moved into our first home in Sheffield. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UBJHXXf7cX4/UsMvaJiUJgI/AAAAAAAABZk/3BK6-0hoPa8/s1600/IMG_1101.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UBJHXXf7cX4/UsMvaJiUJgI/AAAAAAAABZk/3BK6-0hoPa8/s400/IMG_1101.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Evening cragging at Millstone - it's not bad this grit lark.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xUtiv5y-Wlw/UsMwL_mY_1I/AAAAAAAABZ0/sCVMfBw6-5A/s1600/IMG_1250.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xUtiv5y-Wlw/UsMwL_mY_1I/AAAAAAAABZ0/sCVMfBw6-5A/s400/IMG_1250.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ollie climbing Imaginary Voyage, the classic 5.8, White Punks on Dope goes up the slabs behind him. Our ten week trip to the States started with the Needles. The climbing was desperate, yet brilliant and the place was stunningly beautiful. It was a privilege to climb there.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ZsAxzwxpGTg/UsMv97seBAI/AAAAAAAABZs/yxa--FLinzI/s1600/IMG_1474.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ZsAxzwxpGTg/UsMv97seBAI/AAAAAAAABZs/yxa--FLinzI/s400/IMG_1474.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The dream team on top of the Incredible Hulk after climbing the Red Dihedral. The rock quality wasn't great and we queued all the way but it was a good adventure.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/--YMYLlENM_U/UsMw5LivWlI/AAAAAAAABaE/riPSC-nJk6A/s1600/IMG_1495.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/--YMYLlENM_U/UsMw5LivWlI/AAAAAAAABaE/riPSC-nJk6A/s400/IMG_1495.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A speedy day in Tuolumne with the Almadad. We climbed Great Pumpkin, Lucky Streaks and the Regular Route on Fairview Dome in the time it took Ollie and Duncan to queue up the Regular Route. I've we'd have been a bit slicker we might have overtaken them.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zgBHQQWv3-c/UsMxeWVItNI/AAAAAAAABaM/DfrM_-Vta4E/s1600/IMG_1719.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zgBHQQWv3-c/UsMxeWVItNI/AAAAAAAABaM/DfrM_-Vta4E/s400/IMG_1719.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finally we got to Yosemite and like kids in a sweet shop started ticking our way through the classics. Here Duncan loving one of the world's best Hard VSs: the Central Pillar of Frenzy</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-AtuCQupcKcQ/UsMxuUHreRI/AAAAAAAABaU/vs143NcIjyY/s1600/IMG_1743.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-AtuCQupcKcQ/UsMxuUHreRI/AAAAAAAABaU/vs143NcIjyY/s400/IMG_1743.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ollie enjoying the pendulum on Royal Arches, the last route I did before getting kicked out of the park due to the US Government shutting down. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bUPqFQDkrHQ/UsMyAQKm0yI/AAAAAAAABac/fmTW-yMgg1k/s1600/IMG_1884.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bUPqFQDkrHQ/UsMyAQKm0yI/AAAAAAAABac/fmTW-yMgg1k/s400/IMG_1884.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ollie climbing Dream of Wild Turkeys at Red Rocks. When the government shutdown we spent a week in Vegas enjoying brilliant face climbing at Red Rocks. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TQ8xHarvnes/UsMyFtfod8I/AAAAAAAABak/ffxepcpi6fw/s1600/IMG_2675.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TQ8xHarvnes/UsMyFtfod8I/AAAAAAAABak/ffxepcpi6fw/s400/IMG_2675.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Congress sorted themselves out and we were allowed back into Yosemite. We didn't manage El Cap, but we did climb the Leaning Tower instead, which was pretty damn cool. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-22h3nXY-XHc/UsMzrm_SitI/AAAAAAAABa4/GL3JuKzS_KU/s1600/IMG_2819.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-22h3nXY-XHc/UsMzrm_SitI/AAAAAAAABa4/GL3JuKzS_KU/s400/IMG_2819.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Day two in Patagonia and we're climbing the Whillan's Ramp on Aguja Poincenot. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-s5L7mcNVd3s/UsMz0zNAL1I/AAAAAAAABbA/W7gz1N21b_I/s1600/IMG_3014.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-s5L7mcNVd3s/UsMz0zNAL1I/AAAAAAAABbA/W7gz1N21b_I/s400/IMG_3014.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Later the week we climb Aguja Guillaumet. Sadly the rest of our trip was foiled by bad weather. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-t-T9SYzMvbY/UsM0dqBLIEI/AAAAAAAABbM/e-asx9y5Q-M/s1600/IMG_3474.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-t-T9SYzMvbY/UsM0dqBLIEI/AAAAAAAABbM/e-asx9y5Q-M/s400/IMG_3474.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Back home in the Peak I was like kid in a sweet shop with a million and one routes and problems that I'd never climbed. Malcolm Scott climbing Crescent Arete, which I pleased to flash.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-MyUzhkJt0IM/UsM0dzyAbGI/AAAAAAAABbQ/M8CwsRQBs1g/s1600/IMG_3543.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-MyUzhkJt0IM/UsM0dzyAbGI/AAAAAAAABbQ/M8CwsRQBs1g/s400/IMG_3543.jpg" width="255" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mrs Claus taking a well earned rest and enjoying Christmas Crack on Christmas Day. </td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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Here's to 2014 I'm sure it will be a good one. <br />
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<br />Tom Ripleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12154083762954009666noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5524335422956400981.post-88324673706239520152013-11-10T07:02:00.000-08:002013-11-10T07:02:17.457-08:00Poincenot and Guillaumet<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Phil and Ollie low down on the Whillans' Ramp at dawn.</td></tr>
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We arrived in El Chalten, the small, thriving town nestled beneath the Fitzroy and Torre mountains exhausted after four days of traveling. It was cold and windy and there wasn't a mountain in sight. After four days of disjointed sleep on planes, buses and the floors of airports we decided to forgo frugality and treat ourselves to a night in a B and B.<br />
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Unfortuanately for us the Patagonian weather gods had decided to be kind for the next couple of days. Although we were still tired from traveling this was too good an opptunity let pass. We enlisted Phil Wesseler - an American spending the season down here, who we'd met in Yosemite - packed our bags and started the long slog to Paso Superior. After a freezing night of man spooning we awoke at four and headed towards Poincenot. We climbed the Whillans' Ramp, which I thought was a great alpine route and not quite as difficult as the guidebook suggests. We had the whole mountain to ourselves too, which was amazing. The views in Patagonia do not disappoint.<br />
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The descent took a while but was uneventful apart from a jammed rope and the large piece of bergshund I dislodged. Soon we were back at Paso Superior tired and dehydrated. We set off back towards town. Endless postholing lead us back to the snow line, where we donned trainers and kept slogging through the night. After twenty two hours on the go and with no food left the shelter next to the path was too great a temptation. We put our sleeping bags on the picnic table and dropped straight to sleep. The next morning we awoke to light rain and walked back into Chalten. It was longer than I remembered and I was glad we'd stopped for the night.<br />
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After two days of R and R a short weather window appeared in the forecast. Ollie, Phil and I packed up again and headed towards Piedra Negra our sights set on the Amy-Vidailhet on Agjuga Guillaumet. The route was great: a commiting bergshrund led to a fun ice gully, which was followed by a rocky ridge and then the summit snow slopes. On the summit we caught up with another pair climbers. We sat in the sunshine and melted some water, before descending. The descent was straightforward and we were soon back at our bivi. We got back to the road just after dark and managed to hitch back to El Chalten in the third car that passed us, which a relief as I was expecting to spend the night by the side of the road with no food. Cheers guys. Back in town Ollie and I rewarded ourselves with the best steak either of us have ever eaten. Tom Ripleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12154083762954009666noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5524335422956400981.post-9939038724251075192013-10-30T23:18:00.000-07:002013-10-30T23:18:52.494-07:00The Leaning TowerAs soon as the government reopened the national parks Ollie, Duncan and I drove straight into Yosemite, packed up our very heavy Haul Bag and got on The Nose. We gambled three days worth of food and water and jugged back up to our previous highpoint at Sickle Ledge. I lead and fixed the next two pitches as the sun set. I felt unstoppable.<br />
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It wasn't to be. The next morning we bailed from the Stovelegs. Basically we were moving too slowly for the short autumn days. Our lack of prior practice was also showing through: we didn't have our three climber system sorted and every belay was a total cluster.<br />
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Back on the ground my body was sore from the attempt and I was angry with myself for giving in too easily, even though I knew it was the right desicion. I also desperately didn't want to leave the Valley empty handed. We didn't have time for another go at the Nose, besides I didn't want to get back on it as a three.<br />
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I tried to bully, bribe and guilt trip Ollie into doing the Regular Route on Half Dome to no avial. Like me he also didn't want to leave empty handed, but our failure had deflated him - Half Dome was beyond our abilities. Instead he suggested the Leaning Tower, which I'd arrogantly dismissed as too easy, dispute barely knowing anything about the climb.<br />
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An afternoon at Cookie Cliff did little booster our confidence. We backed off a 5.9 chimney (If that is the best 5.9 at Cookie I hate to think what the bad ones are like!) and I hitched back to Camp 4 in a huff.<br />
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The next day we were planning on leaving the Valley and heading to Santa Cruz to relax by the beach for the remaining few days of our trip. I didn't want to do this. Instead I opened up the guidebook and read the description for The Leaning West Face - it actually sounded pretty damn good and it's a Warren Harding route.<br />
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Mentally and physically tired from nine weeks of climbing Duncan decided to sit this one out. On the first day I lead the first two pitches, a strenuous bolt ladder, before fixing our ropes and returning to Camp 4.<br />
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The next morning we returned to the base of the climb and jumared our free hanging ropes. Ollie then lead two more pitches, which lead to the palacial Ahwahnee Ledge. We fixed two more pitches in the afternoon sun, before descending back to the ledge for very well earned beer, dinner and sleep.<br />
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After a leisurely start we jugged our fixed lines and continued for three more steep pitches to the top of the Leaning Tower and our first big wall. Big wall climbing is not much like climbing really. It involves a strange mix of terror combined with some very well earned downtime in some very cool places. It is also very rewarding and I'm looking forward to doing more of it.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Harry Potter tries the Nose - I snapped my glasses at the bivi.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Little man sad to be bailing from the Big Stone.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vertigo for breakfast anyone - Ollie jugs our fixed lines on the second day.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It's amazing where stuff grows.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ollie aiding on the Leaning Tower.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ollie ready to eat on Ahwahnee Ledge.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Totem Cams - if you are going big walling get a set of these, they go in anywhere and are always bomber.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Why Gri-gris were invented - for taking selfies whilst belaying.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ollie experiencing brain meltdown, whilst cleaning the final pitch.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">El Cap - still the dream.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ollie abseiling with the pig.</td></tr>
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<br />Tom Ripleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12154083762954009666noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5524335422956400981.post-55147541866516135302013-10-19T11:49:00.001-07:002013-10-19T11:49:17.907-07:00It might be back on...We got expelled from the Valley and ended up in Las Vegas. After spending a night on the Strip we found ourselves a cheap hotel on the Red Rocks side of town. (All campsites were closed due to the government shutdown and the only free camping dangerously close to a methhead encampment.)<br />
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We spent an enjoyable week ticking our way though classics in Black Velvet Canyon. The climbing at Red Rocks is excellent: solid, multipitch sandstone with conviently bolted belays and protection bolts for when everything started to get scary! If you haven't been go there, it's ace.<br />
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After our week of extravagance it was back to a Spartan existence in Bishop. We stayed at the very pleasant free camping adjacent to the Buttermilks and visited the Happys, the Sads, the Buttermilks and the Pollengrains. As a mostly non boulderer (I'm just too weak and rubbish) I had a great time doing some of the very easy problems. They certainaly don't give the V grades out with sweeties - infact it is the only place I've climbed that makes the grades at the Indy Wall look soft!<br />
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Thankfully the US Government has sorted itself out and we are now on our way back into Yosemite. We've only got twelve days remaining in the states. If we pull our fingers out we should have enough time to climb the Nose and the Regular Route on Half Dome, but we are going to be cuting it fine.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Burrows seconding the crux of Dream of Wild Turkeys.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ollie on Sourmash.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Black Velvet Canyon - not a shit crag.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Thank God for that...</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">King 'Ledge.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Burrows crushing at the Happy's.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Maddie crimping for Warrington on Mister Witty - V6.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Howard bellyflopping for Warrington on Pope's Prow.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Maddie on the Northwest Arête of Grandma Peabody.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Melted marshmallows the pudding of heros.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">There wasn't much space on the drive to Yosemite.</td></tr>
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<br />Tom Ripleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12154083762954009666noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5524335422956400981.post-17856509792500663362013-10-06T13:46:00.000-07:002013-10-06T13:46:01.150-07:00Frustration (and Loathing the US government) in Las VegasWe were somewhere on Highway 120 on the way out of Yosemite when reality began to kick in: due to the US Federal Government shutting down we were being kicked out of the Valley. Our dreams of climbing El Capitan over, at least for the foreseeable future. We don't seem to have had much luck on this trip. When we we arrived in California it was on fire, which prevented us from spending as much time as we wanted in Tuolumne Meadows. Our original plan was to spend seven week in Yosemite but because of the fire we decided to hire another car and head to Colorado, which then flooded the day before we set off. So we headed to Smith Rock which was okay, but who flies across the Atlantic to go sport climbing, when I could do better climbing in France or Spain for a fraction of the cost.<br />
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We finally made it Yosemite with the aim of spending our remaining five weeks in the States there. Arriving in the Valley we drove down to El Cap meadow and saw the Captain for the first time. I don't think I have been so inspired, psyched and excited by a piece of rock. In the days leading up to our arrival Ollie and I had been had arguing about which wall we were going to climb first. As soon as we set our eyes on El Cap we knew it had to be the Nose.<br />
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That evening we climbed Nutcracker, a great but quite tricky 5.8 on Manure Pile Buttress. The next two days were spent driving back to SF to return our hire car. Back in the Valley we aided the first pitch of Cosmos at the base of El Cap and practised jugging a fixed rope to get in the swing of things. The next day we soloed a fun 5.6 called Mungenella and climbed the Central Pillar of Frenzy, which was totally brilliant and one of the best Hard VSs I've ever done.<br />
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The next day Duncan needed a rest so Ollie and I soloed Royal Arches as our active rest. I founded it to be a little more tiring than I'd anticipated - the pendulum is brilliant. That evening we sorted our rack for the Nose. The next morning we got up early and fixed our ropes to Sickle, which was uneventful apart from the short fall I took on the first pitch when an overtaking party's cam ripped out. (Rather embarrassingly I've taken more aid falls than trad falls this year.) We also saw Mayan Smith-Gobat and Stan Leary set off to break the mixed record. When we got down to El Cap Bridge after fixing they were already there having climbed the whole route (3:30) and descending the East Ledges. Very very impressive!<br />
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Our plan was to pack the next day, then jumar up the ropes the following evening and spend the night at Sickle, before climbing the Nose over three days. Originally we were going to do this regardless of the Shutdown. However although the Park Service said they weren't going to arrest climbers who were descending if they changed their minds and we did get arrested it would make re-entering the US very difficult to impossible. And as much as I dislike America and would never want to live here there is some very good climbing here and I don't want risk never being able to visit again for the sake of one route, which will always be there.<br />
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We managed to get a lift out of the Valley to Las Vegas, which is surreal. We had one bet on the roulette wheel and lost. I'm never doing that again. Watching people sit in a darkened room, surrounded by flashing lights, gambling all their money away is depressing. We are staying in a cheap Hotel - it's nice to sleep in a bed for a change and we had no real choice as the official campsite is closed and the only free camping is frequented by Methheads. We climbed at Black Velvet Canyon yesterday, which although very good isn't Yosemite. Hopefully the Republicans and Democrats will sort themselves out before we leave for Patagonia on Nov 1 and we'll get to climb El Cap.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The team and the Captain - I don't think I've ever been this psyched before.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nutcracker - Duncan seconding and Ollie leading.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Duncan enjoying Central Pillar of Frenzy. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hDE6uAC4gVY/UlHCQFK7GGI/AAAAAAAABPc/86pgQQXGOm4/s1600/IMG_1743.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hDE6uAC4gVY/UlHCQFK7GGI/AAAAAAAABPc/86pgQQXGOm4/s400/IMG_1743.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ollie with his hand looped through the A0 pendulmn on Royal Arches. I was a big scardey cat and clipped in. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5Z_IBJlZgMY/UlHCWrMy6pI/AAAAAAAABPk/QdanOK7d4x0/s1600/IMG_1771.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5Z_IBJlZgMY/UlHCWrMy6pI/AAAAAAAABPk/QdanOK7d4x0/s400/IMG_1771.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Duncan leading pitch 4 of the Nose.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">End of dream...</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vegas baby!</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Paris baby!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZZ0SLt6wNZw/UlHI0o9UAlI/AAAAAAAABQ4/xOlyxJDMlAg/s1600/IMG_1804.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZZ0SLt6wNZw/UlHI0o9UAlI/AAAAAAAABQ4/xOlyxJDMlAg/s400/IMG_1804.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Venice baby!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4NMDPYe7imo/UlHI1vXJTfI/AAAAAAAABRA/UmhZc2ufO2k/s1600/IMG_1849.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4NMDPYe7imo/UlHI1vXJTfI/AAAAAAAABRA/UmhZc2ufO2k/s400/IMG_1849.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Red Rocks baby!</td></tr>
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Tom Ripleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12154083762954009666noreply@blogger.com0