El Chorro, Gilbratar, Tremadog and Banned Goodnesss...

Nikki and I have just come back from a week in El Chorro. We did some cool routes, but neither of us were particularly psyched. It was nice to get away from the UK for a week and be in the sunshine.

The best routes I did on the trip were Asfalto at El Torcal and Tinto de Verano at Frontalas.

Me leading the excellent Asfalto.

We also did the King's Walkway, which was quite sketchy but good entertainment.

Nikki on the start of the King's Walkway.

Nikki going back through the railway tunnels after the walkway.

The Olive Branch, apparently the place to be, was fully booked so we ended up Staying at Finca La Campa. It wasn't too great to be honest. We paid extra for a double room, which was tiny with no natural light. The vibe was pretty bad too - the other guest were a group of Germans who enjoyed standing around topless and applying suncream to each other...

By the end of the week we both needed a change of scene so we head to Gibraltar. I'd not been Gibraltar before and it was pretty cool; warm and sunny with lots of friendly people. Perhaps Brits would be as patriotic if our weather was as good? We headed up the rock on the cable car to the check out the Macaques (not apes!), which were quite entertaining.

Visiting relatives in Gibraltar.

Did I mention I had a shop in Gibraltar...

I didn't know it was alcohol free beer honest...

Back in the Wales Dunc, Ollie, Livingstone, Harry and I had a cool evening causing mayhem and jumping off the bridge. It was pretty exciting when Dunc snapped the rope!

Duncan looking psyched to back almost back on the bridge having just snapped the static.

Remember kids ropes aren't strong even if you have a negative mass, you can snap them if you know how...

Livingstone proving to us all that he is better than us!

After three hours sleep Ollie and I got up and drove to Tremadog. I sandbagged Ollie into leading a wet Barbarian. He cruised it and I promptly fell off seconding.

Burrow cruising a wet Barbarian.

We then wandered over to Falcon. I've been wanting to do this for ages and have been putting it off for nearly as long. The bottom was wet and I nearly fagged out. After a fair amount of faffing on the allegedly loose (is it really?) bottom section I was committed to the crux. The climbing is sustained, excellent, absorbing and technical in the first half. The top section is pretty tricky too, it follows a crack that doesn't relent until right at the top. I had to properly try on this route and was chuffed to pieces on the top. It is far and away the best E1 at Tremadog and one of the best E1 pitches in North Wales. Cheers for belaying me for so long Ollie.

After lectures the next morning Polly and I headed to Craig Y Forwyn for more banned goodness. We abseiled in and climbed Route 66 a great, but slightly over grown, VS. I then had a go at Mojo the classic E1 of the crag. I did the difficult start moves and reached the first break. I got a small cam in, but I wasn't too inspired. I tried to fiddle in more gear, but got progressively more pumped and then lowered off.

PH on an abseiling masterclass...

We then climbed Fido's Redemption, which I had had a complete mare on last year. I don't know what I was on that day because I cruised it this time. As I reached the belay a posh voice traveled up from the caravan site: "CLIMBERS! YOU ARE TRESPASSING!" Thankfully Polly saved the day by apologizing profusely in her best school girl voice and he left us alone.

Polly leading the awesome top pitch of Fido's Redemption.

We then finished that day with some extreme abseiling to retrieve my gear from Mojo... 

By the end of the day Polly had progressed to extreme abseiling jiggery pokery...

Slate, Tremadog and Craig y Forwyn

February has been pretty wet in North Wales. Thankfully towards the end of the month the sun started to come out.

Livingstone and I had a great afternoon on the Slate. I fannyed around Fools Gold before backing off. (This seems to be my boogie routes... I've fallen off it once and backed off it twice!) Livingstone then dispatched it in style and followed without issue, proving that I am indeed a fanny.

Livingstone walking up Fools Gold in the sunshine.

Tom then had a go on his project Beltane. He gave it a really good go getting to the penultimate clip on his first go this session. He tried it again, but his skin was too sore from crimping on bugger all.

Livingstone dispatching the dyno move on Beltane.

Red pointing blues...

Fooked skin...

We then headed down to Vivian for the East Face link up. I lead Mental Lentals and then followed Tom up the other routes to the bottom of Dervish Slab. Tom quickly dispatched Last Tango but by this point it was nearly dark. Neither of us had head torches so Tom abseiled off and stripped the gear.

On Sunday Ollie and I headed to Tremadog in search of esoteric gems. I really enjoy the climbing at Tremadog mainly because I know how to climb there. After finding most Pant Ifan wet and not being man enough to get on Falcon we headed to Craig Y Castell, intent on staying 'til dark and in search of esoteric gems.

Ollie on the enjoyable approach pitch to Pryderi/Pwyll

We had a great day out doing six routes. All of which get at least ** in the new guide book, are clean, unpolished (apart from Craig Du Wall) and well worth seeking out. We started with Pryderi which was good fun and only just E1. Ollie then led Pwyll an excellent pitch. A committing, bold sequence up a crystally slab followed by a steep well protected wall. Tricky for E2 and I imagine good practice for Silly Arete.

Myself low down on the main pitch of Pryderi

Ollie above the scary crux on Pwyll.

I then lead Gestiana which was really good, with sustained climbing and quite spaced gear. Ollie then did Blas Y Cynfyd which offered quite bold climbing on immaculate rough rock.

See between the trees: me leading Gestiana.

We then did the super classic Craig Du Wall followed by running up Mensor in the half light. According to my guidebook I'd done Mensor in 2004 with my Dad, but I have absolutely no recollection of this. Anyway it is an excellent pitch. One of the best VS pitches at Tremagdog I've done, with quite improbable climbing at the grade.

We then drove to Llanberis and had a rowdy evening in the heights to celebrate Ballford's twenty third birthday. 

Amazingly on Monday morning I didn't have a hangover so Mason and I headed to Craig Y Forwyn. We abseiled into the banned end of the crag. Al led off up the Snake (E2) dispatching it seemingly without issue. Seconding I realised three things: trad limestone E2 is hard, Mason is very, very good at rock climbing and the guy who owns Craig Y Forwyn is unbelievably selfish. It is a fantastic crag and it is a real shame that it is banned. However every cloud has a silver lining and at least it isn't as polished as Stoney Middleton!

Al Mason leading pitch one of the Snake. Sangfroid Direct takes the groove to the left.

After a couple of rests to remove runners I was the belay pretty pumped. Thankfully Al way happy to lead the top pitch, which offered brilliant technical climbing, which I managed to second clean.

Al leading the technical second pitch of the Snake.

We abseiled back down and I set of Sangfroid. Unfortunately when I committed to the flack crack the cans of larger in my belly from the night before started to swirl around. This caused me to nearly throw up. Tail between my legs I lowered off and Al finished up Sangfroid Direct, which steeps right into a second crack leading into the top of the Snake. An excellent pitch.

Nikki and I are off to El Chorro for a week tomorrow. Hopefully we'll get loads of mileage in a come back fit and psyched for the trad season!

Fear and excitement

My exam timetable got released last week, which allowed me to book flights to Alaska for Tom Livingstone and me.

We're flying out on the 28th of May, which is later than I had hoped to leave. We'll have 5 weeks in the Central Alaska Range, before flying back on the 4th July.

Below are a couple photos, pinched from High Alaska, of routes we'd like to climb...

North West Face of Denali

The Cassin Ridge and Denali's South Face.

 Psyche is high!

A coward's introductuion to Craig Doris

Craig Doris in all her glory.

It was wet in Bangor, so Mason and Chris dropped out. Undeterred Owain and I drove down the the Lleyn in search of dry rock. At Pwllheli it was still raining. Blindly we kept driving to the end of the Lleyn and pulled up in the farm yard. It was now overcast and the road was dryish.

We walked round to the bottom of crag where we left our sacks beneath a tottering pile of terrifying, Stevie Haston, overhanging looseness. We scampered along to choose out a route.

I've done a reasonable amount of climbing on loose crags before but I've climbed nowhere like Craig Doris. It isn't just loose, it is falling down. In places you can brush the rock away with ease.

Owain demonstrating how loose the rock is!

We picked na E1 5a called Votes For Dogs. A leftward rising ramp/corner to the left of the classic Byzantium. Back at the bags we tossed for it and I won - or lost depending on your point of view. Every extra cam i added to my harness added to the anticipation. At the base of the route I saw it was wet. I wanted to hand over the lead to Owain then but my ego wouldn't allow it. Perched on the tiny ledge I uncoiled the ropes and put on my rockshoes whilst Owain invented a belay. 

Owain psyched for the lead after I back off!

I set of climbing, placing runners wherever I could, lobbing loose rock over my shoulder and trying not to panic. This went well enough until I got the wet section where I wussed out, climbed back down and gave Owain the lead. On the way down I pressed down on a large hold, which I had committed my weight to on the way up. It was about the size of my head and it came away. Spooked I left it there conscious that it would hurt Owain if it hit him, he was in the firing line and I'm not very good at throwing.

Owain overcoming the wet section that was too much for me.

Owain despatched the wet section quickly, but took his time on the steep top crack. Following this I wasn't surprised and I battled with wet arm jams and pleaded for a tighter rope.

Owain grappling with the steep, wet and not that loose top crack.

Next time I go to Craig Doris I think I'll go on a warm day with my trad head on!

Glyders

Duncan and I have been for a wander up on the Glyders today. The little fella is off to Scotland for the first time this weekend so thought it was a good idea to suss out wearing crampons first. We roped up for two mini pitches before unroping and soloing to the top. We then walked across the plateau and headed down the Gribin Ridge back to the car.

A lot of snow has survived the rain and thaw and with recent cold and high pressure is now pretty hard neve. Turf is frozen down to valley level and there is a fair bit of ice around on tarns, streams and paths.

All we need is a bit more snow and then it will be really good.

Clogwyn Ddu looked good. There is quite a lot of Ice. Left Hand Branch looked in. The turf will now be a rock solid. All that is need is a light dusting and the crag with be stonkingly good.

I spoke to a guy who had soloed Hidden Gully and Tower Slabs. He said the ice good. He also said that two folk back of Left Hand Branch today.

DC learning to walk again on Bristly Ridge.

Tryfran, Duncan and the Carneddau.

Clogwyn Ddu today - very black but plenty of ice.

A close up of left hand branch. There also a appears to be plenty of build up on the outside of Pillar chimney and maybe enough on the ephemeral Spectral Wall.

A broard church...

I've got out quite a bit since I last posted and have been super busy so haven't managed to update.

Here goes...

Thursday night - Gareth and I headed out after work and did a moonlight ascent of Cneifion Arete. We did two short pitches before moving together for the top section. It's a good little outing and would be great introduction to mixed climbing.

Gareth on pitch one of Cneifion Arete.

Gareth leading pitch two.

 Saturday - Nikki and I got up early and met Gareth in Ogwen just before 7. It was super warm, but ever optimistic we walked up to try Arch Gully on Glyder Fach. It was very warm with no hoar when we got to the bottom so we sacked it off and headed for Bristly Ridge instead. Gareth made a slight navigational mishap, and ignored Nikki's protestations, whilst I shirked at the back. After a little detour we eventually arrived at the bottom of the route. Nikki's psyched was low by this point so she headed back the car. Gareth and I quickly soloed Bristly ridge, which I'd never done before and thoroughly enjoyed. Another good route to do as one's first mixed route.

Gareth and Nikki in the car park.

Thumbs down - Gareth below an out of nick Arch Gully.

Garth on Bristly Ridge.

Sunday - The send trained headed to Porth Ysgo for a spot of bouldering. It was minging and greasy when we arrived so we all pissed about and did the Ysgo Challenge. Top effort Ballsford for doing it one handed! Eventually it dried off and we did a few problems before heading back to Bangor and cooking a giant roast for everyone.

Nikki looking scary!

My girlfriend is really strong!

What really happened!

DC trying not to be a fag!

Didn't know I was this strong!

There can be only one and he's got itchy balls!

We did some bouldering too. Me on a V2.

Monday - Thaw so Ben, Livingstone, Burdy, Taylor and I went for a run. We parked at PYB and ran (well I walked) up Moel Siabod and along the fence over the Moelwyns. After a while it got a bit late and as we only had one head torch between us we decided to bail down the Nant Gwynant. A massive thanks to the total heroes who gave five smelly lads a lift back to PYB in the back of their Land Rover.

Ben, Taylor and Burdy running down from Moel Siabod.

Ben enjoying the snow and the sun.

Ben and Livingstone jammed in the back of the Landy.

Clogwyn Ddu

No lectures on Wednesdays so Livingstone and I headed to Clogwyn Ddu. It was beautiful day crisp, clear and very cold for Wales. We arrived at the crag just in time to see DMM Rob take a whipper from Travesty. He gave it another go and went even further, before calling it day "because he was late for work."

The crag was well hoared up, with quite a lot of ice and looks very wintery. However, whilst some of the turf is frozen lots of it isn't. With this in mind we headed for Manx Wall as it isn't turf dependent like the El Mancho, Mankini and Blenderhead. I've done Manx Wall before so was happy to let Tom leading it. It was in harder nick this time with an unhelpful layer of ice hiding most of the hooks and runners on the first pitch. I managed to get up it without falling off thankfully.

At the top of the crag we abseiled back to the terrace and I thrutched my way up Pillar Chimney. Livingstone sketched his way up to the top of thin ice. We got back to Ogwen a little after dark.

There is no ice worth mentioning in the Kitchen at the moment. 

Me on the slog up - Poles were very useful today.

The crag this morning

Rob Greenwood having it on Travesty.

Tom Livingstone on the first pitch of Manx Wall.

Livingstone leaving the belay on Manx Wall pitch two.

Livingstone chilling having made the god awful ledge move on El Mancho/Manx Wall.

Me squirming up through Pillar Chimney.

Two chummers.

Red sky at night shepherd's delight - Snowdon at sunset.