Then, in the evening light, the Presten loomed into view. A beautiful granite slab, five hundred metres high and home to Vestpillaren the route I was most psyched to climb.
|The Presten in all her glory.|
|Nikki topping out on the excellent Piano Handler Lund's Route.|
|Nikki on Applecake Arete.|
|Our campsite at Gandalf.|
|Nikki on Gandalf.|
Four days of unwelcome rain followed, when it cleared up we headed west to the end of the islands for a change of scene. We climbed a HVS slab climb called Sea Breeze. It gets top 50 in the Rockfax, but I'm not convinced either of authors had climbed it to check! It does have some good climbing with lots of bold slab padding. It also has some pretty crappy over grown climbing and some loose rock. The clag came in at pitch 4 and the by the penultimate (crux) pitch it was raining lightly, which made for challenging climbing. Nikki knocked a big block off and watched it bounce down the slabs, across the road, narrowly missing our hire car and into the sea. I thought this was pretty cool, but it freaked Nikki out a bit. At the top of the route we were both pretty drench. We then spent the next few hours abseiling down the wrong descent gully, which was now a scary, loose waterfall.
|It's getting atmospheric.|
|A traumatized Nikki.|
|Abseiling down Death Gully...|
|Back at the car, soaked to the skin.|
The crux pitch wasn't too bad and I laced it with even more gear than usual. The top half was superb with brilliant, steep climbing on massive hold with good gear. In the afternoon we climbed a crowded Puffin Club, which was also very good. The layback section through the overhang on pitch 2 was excellent.
|Nikki on pitch one of Puffin Club.|
|A cool fountain thingy near Narvik that we stopped to look at on the drive back.|
|It pays to be attentive in Norway - Our crag swag haul after two weeks!|