Nothing was open so we had a few hours kip in the car, before checking into a hotel and having a another few hours sleep. We stayed in Hotel Salama, which is about £20 a night for a double room with en suite. There were a number of other cheaper options, some better than others.
|Nikki by Robin Hood Rock. Photo: Ripley.|
We then headed to Robin Hood Rocks, one of the roadside crags in Steve Broadbent's guide. We did a couple of nice VS routes. The routes were ok, but they weren't as good as they were hyped up to be in his guide. We headed back to Tafrout feeling pretty underwhelmed.
|Nikki seconding a VS at Robin Hood Rocks. Photo: Ripley|
|Me high up on Tizgut Arete. Photo: Sommers.|
|Me leading pitch one of Tizgut Buttress. Photo: Sommers.|
|Tizgut Crag. Tizgut Arete takes the right hand arete of the big crag. Tizgut. Tizgut crack starts up the big corner in the shade. Photo: Ripley.|
|Nikki on the Lion's Face. Photo: Ripley.|
|Nikki belaying high up on the Lion's Face. Photo: Ripley.|
We had a rest day the next day and visited the painted rocks. These granite boulders, a few miles south of Tafraout, were painted by some mental Belgian, who must have sampled more than his fair share of psychedelics!
|The painted rocks - weird! Photo: Ripley.|
It didn't rain once in our week in Morocco and I'd thoroughly recommend it to anyone who fancies an autumn cragging holiday that doesn't involve Spain or bolts, not that there is anything wrong with either of those things!
What to take:
- 60 metre half ropes
- A standard UK trad rack including hexes and a big cam.
- Suncream and Sun hat.
- Abseil Tat
- The painted rocks.
- Breakfast at Hotel Les Armadiers.
- A visit to Maison Troc - the local carpet sellers are very persuasive; we came back with a rug!
- Restaurant La Kasbah owned by the above carpet sellers.
- Post cragging beers at Les Armadiers.
*I should point out that the two guide books cover adjacent areas and there is little overlap between them. If you want to climb on the North side of Jebel El Kest you need the Steve Broadbent guide. However the minmalist style of original guide book is much more adventurous and it is a shame that Broardbent didn't follow suit with his newer book. (Instead he focused on over starring his own routes!)